The Danube Delta: a first-timer's guide to Europe's great wetland

Why go

The delta is Romania at its wildest and slowest. Days are spent gliding through narrow channels lined with willows and water lilies, watching great white pelicans lift off a lake, eating fish soup in a reed roofed guesthouse and listening to frogs at night. It is unlike anywhere else in Europe, and a peaceful contrast to castles and cities.

Tulcea, the gateway

**Tulcea** is the town where most trips start. Ferries and fast boats leave from its riverfront for the three main arms of the Danube. Visit the **Danube Delta Eco Tourism Centre**, with its aquarium and displays, to understand the ecosystem before you head out. Tulcea is around four to five hours by road from Bucharest, or less from Constanta.

Villages to stay in

**Sulina**, at the end of the central arm, is the most easterly town in Romania, with a lighthouse, an old sailors' cemetery and a wide beach on the Black Sea. **Crisan** and **Mila 23** are fishing villages deep in the delta, ideal for small boat trips at dawn. **Sfantu Gheorghe**, on the southern arm, has a wild beach, a film festival in summer and some of the best fish cooking. **Murighiol** and **Uzlina**, reachable by road, are easier bases with boat trips straight into the reserve.

Boat trips and birdwatching

The best way to see wildlife is on a small boat with a local guide, early in the morning or late in the afternoon when birds are most active. Bigger tour boats are cheaper but can only use the wider channels. Look out for great white and Dalmatian pelicans, pygmy cormorants, egrets, glossy ibis, kingfishers and white tailed eagles. Spring migration in May and June is the high point.

Permits and rules

You need an access permit from the Danube Delta Biosphere Reserve Authority to enter the reserve. Guesthouses and boat operators often arrange it, but you can also buy it online or in Tulcea. Respect closed areas, keep noise down and take rubbish out with you. Fishing has its own rules and permits.

Food

The delta's cooking is all about fish: **ciorba de peste** (fish soup), fish stew with polenta, grilled carp, catfish and pike, and saramura, fish grilled and served in brine. Many guesthouses include meals, since restaurants are few in the villages.

Where to stay

Choose between floating hotels and lodges near Tulcea or Murighiol for comfort, and family guesthouses in Crisan, Mila 23 or Sfantu Gheorghe for the real delta experience. Book ahead in summer and check how you will reach your stay, as many are boat only.

Practical tips

Mosquitoes are fierce in summer evenings, so bring strong repellent, long sleeves and a head net if you are sensitive. Bring cash, as ATMs are only in Tulcea and Sulina and many guesthouses do not take cards. Ferry timetables change by season and are limited, so check them before planning. Pack sun protection, binoculars and layers for cool mornings on the water. Use the free trip planner to fit the delta into a longer Romania trip.