Brasov: a first-timer's guide to the heart of Transylvania

Why go

Brasov gives you Transylvania in one easy package. The old town is beautiful and safe, the mountains begin at the end of the street, and within an hour you can be at Romania's most famous castles, in a ski resort or in a village unchanged for centuries. The train from Bucharest takes around two and a half to three hours through the Prahova valley, so it is simple to reach without driving.

The old town

**Council Square** (Piata Sfatului) is the heart of town, ringed by colourful houses and the old council house, now a history museum. Just off it stands the **Black Church**, the largest Gothic church in the region, named after a fire in 1689 blackened its walls. Inside you will find one of the largest collections of Anatolian carpets in Europe and a huge organ, with concerts in summer.

Walk along the old walls to the **White and Black Towers** for views over the roofs, find **Strada Sforii**, one of the narrowest streets in Europe, and pass under the **Catherine's Gate**, the only original city gate to survive. The **Schei** district beyond the gate was the historic Romanian quarter, with the **First Romanian School** and the St Nicholas church.

Tampa mountain

Take the cable car or hike up through the forest to the top of **Tampa** for the classic view over the old town. The walk takes about an hour each way on a good path. Brown bears do live in these forests, so stay on paths and never leave food out.

Day trips

**Bran Castle**, about forty minutes away, is sold as Dracula's castle. It is a lovely small fortress on a rock, with rooms furnished as they were when Queen Marie lived here. Go early or late to avoid queues. Nearby **Rasnov fortress** is a peasant citadel on a hill with great views.

**Peles Castle** in Sinaia, about an hour away by train, is the neo Renaissance summer palace of Romania's kings and one of the most lavish interiors in Europe. It closes one day a week and for maintenance in parts of the year, so check opening days. Combine it with the **Sinaia Monastery** and a cable car ride into the Bucegi mountains.

To the north, the **fortified churches** of the Saxon villages, such as **Prejmer** and **Harman**, close to town, and **Viscri** further away, are UNESCO listed. Viscri is a whitewashed village of farmhouses and horse carts that King Charles helped to preserve.

Outdoors

**Poiana Brasov**, twenty minutes up the hill, is Romania's best known ski resort in winter and a hiking base in summer. The **Piatra Craiului** and **Bucegi** mountains offer serious day hikes. The **Libearty Bear Sanctuary** at Zarnesti is the ethical way to see rescued brown bears.

Food and drink

Try the hearty mountain food: bulz (polenta with cheese), cheese aged in fir bark, ciorba de burta (tripe soup) for the brave, and kurtos kalacs, the chimney cake sold from street stalls. The old town has wine bars serving Romanian wines from Dealu Mare and Transylvania.

Where to stay

Stay inside or just outside the old town walls so you can walk everywhere. Schei is quieter and has guesthouses with mountain views. Families often choose apartments, and Poiana Brasov suits winter sports.

Practical tips

Weekends and the summer holidays are busy, especially at Bran, so plan castle visits for weekdays. December brings a Christmas market to Council Square. Use the free trip planner to link Brasov with Sibiu and Sighisoara.