Sintra: a first-timer's guide to the palace hills

Why go

Few places pack so much fantasy into so small an area. On one hilltop stands the brightly coloured Pena Palace, on the next ridge the walls of a thousand year old Moorish castle. Below, the old town has a medieval royal palace, pastry shops and narrow lanes. Around it lie mysterious estates such as Quinta da Regaleira and Monserrate, and beyond them the cliffs of Cabo da Roca and the wild beaches of the Atlantic coast.

Top sights

**Pena Palace** is the star: a romantic jumble of yellow, red and blue towers built in the nineteenth century on the site of an old monastery, surrounded by a huge park of exotic trees and lakes. The terraces have views to Lisbon and the ocean. **The Moorish Castle**, next door, has walls that snake across granite ridges. **Quinta da Regaleira**, near the town centre, is full of symbolism: grottoes, tunnels, a chapel and the famous initiation well, a spiral staircase dropping deep into the earth. **The National Palace of Sintra**, in the old town, is recognisable by its two huge white chimneys and has some of the oldest tiles in Portugal. **Monserrate Palace** is quieter, with an exotic façade and gardens of plants from around the world. The **Convent of the Capuchos** is a tiny, cork lined monastery hidden in the forest, a peaceful contrast to the busy palaces.

The coast nearby

Sintra's hills run down to the sea. **Cabo da Roca** is the westernmost point of mainland Europe, with a lighthouse on windswept cliffs. **Azenhas do Mar** is a white village spilling down a cliff to an ocean pool, lovely at sunset. **Praia da Adraga** and **Praia Grande** are dramatic beaches, though the sea can be dangerous, so swim only where lifeguards are on duty. **Cascais**, a short bus ride away, is a seaside town with beaches, a marina and the Boca do Inferno cliffs, and the train back to Lisbon from there follows the coast.

Food and drink

Sintra has two famous pastries: the **travesseiro**, a puff pastry pillow filled with almond cream, and the **queijada**, a small cheese tart. Casa Piriquita is the classic place to try both. The Colares area makes unusual wines from vines grown in sand, and the seafood along the coast is excellent.

How to plan your day

The palaces use timed tickets, and capacity is limited in summer, so book online ahead on the official Parques de Sintra site and choose the earliest slot for Pena. A good order is Pena at opening time, then the Moorish Castle, then down to the old town for lunch, with Regaleira or the National Palace in the afternoon. Trying to see everything in one day is exhausting; two days, or a night in town, lets you add Monserrate, the Capuchos and the coast. Wear good shoes, as the paths are steep and the hills are cooler and damper than Lisbon.

Getting there and around

Trains run from Lisbon's Rossio station to Sintra in about forty minutes. Do not drive into the historic centre: roads are narrow, one way and often closed to traffic, and parking is very limited. From the station, local tourist buses loop up to Pena and the castle, and many visitors walk the forest paths. Tuk tuks and ride hailing are also available.

Where to stay

Most people visit on a day trip, but staying a night lets you enjoy the town in the quiet evening and reach the palaces before the crowds. Choose the old town for atmosphere or a quinta in the hills for peace.

Staying safe

Sintra is safe, but busy queues attract pickpockets, and forest paths and wet stone steps can be slippery. Check your own government's travel advice before you go.