The Algarve: a first-timer's guide to Portugal's south coast

Why go

The Algarve has more sunshine than almost anywhere in Europe and beaches for every taste. Families like its calm coves and easy resorts, walkers come for clifftop trails, surfers for the west coast, and food lovers for grilled fish, clams and the copper pot stew called cataplana. It is easy to reach through Faro airport and relaxed even in the busy months, as long as you choose your base well.

The regions

The **western Algarve** around **Lagos** has the classic scenery: Ponta da Piedade's sea stacks and arches, Dona Ana and Camilo beaches, and an attractive walled old town full of bars and restaurants. Further west, **Sagres** and **Cabo de São Vicente** feel like the end of the world, with windswept cliffs and famous sunsets. The **central Algarve** around **Carvoeiro**, **Albufeira** and **Lagoa** has the Benagil cave, Praia da Marinha and the Seven Hanging Valleys trail, but also the busiest resorts. The **eastern Algarve**, the **Sotavento**, is calmer and more traditional: **Tavira** is a graceful old town on a river, **Olhão** is a working fishing port with a great market, and the **Ria Formosa** lagoon protects long sandy island beaches reached by small ferries. **Faro**, the capital, has a pretty walled old town that many travellers miss.

Top things to do

Take a boat or kayak trip from Lagos to Ponta da Piedade or from Portimão, Benagil or Carvoeiro to the sea caves. Landing on Benagil beach by swimming or paddling is restricted, so join a licensed boat and follow current local rules. Walk the Seven Hanging Valleys trail early in the day for clifftop views. Watch the sunset at Cabo de São Vicente. Catch a ferry to Ilha de Tavira or Ilha Deserta for a day on an almost empty beach. Visit the red Moorish castle of Silves and the mountain spa village of Monchique for cooler air. For a longer adventure, walk part of the Rota Vicentina's Fishermen's Trail along the west coast.

Food and drink

The sea dominates: grilled sardines, sea bream and bass, clams cooked in garlic and coriander, octopus and cataplana. Portimão is famous for sardines, Olhão for clams and its market, and Monchique for smoked sausages and medronho, a strong fruit brandy. Try Dom Rodrigo and Morgado, almond and fig sweets with Moorish roots.

Where to stay

First timers who want variety usually choose **Lagos**, which has a real town, beaches and boat trips on its doorstep. **Tavira** suits couples and slower travellers. **Carvoeiro** is a pretty base for the cave coast. **Albufeira** is good for nightlife and big resorts but crowded in summer. Families often prefer self catering villas, which need a car in the countryside. Surfers head to **Sagres** or **Aljezur**.

Getting around

A regional train line runs from Lagos to Vila Real de Santo António, stopping at Portimão, Albufeira, Faro, Olhão and Tavira, though some stations are outside the towns. Buses fill in the gaps. Trains from Lisbon reach Faro in about three to four hours, and express buses also link the region to Lisbon. Boats and short taxi rides reach many beaches.

Staying safe

The Algarve is safe, with petty theft from cars and beach bags the main concern. Respect the beach flags: red means no swimming, and Atlantic currents are strong on the west coast. Keep away from cliff edges, which can collapse, and never sit directly below them. Summer heat and wildfire risk inland are real, so follow local warnings. Check your own government's travel advice before you go.