Cebu: history, waterfalls and the sardine run

Why go

Cebu combines history, adventure and easy logistics. The old downtown holds Magellan's Cross and the Basilica del Santo Niño, the country's oldest Christian image. In the south, river canyons end at the turquoise pools of Kawasan Falls, and just off the beach at Moalboal millions of sardines swirl a few metres from shore. In the far north, Malapascua is one of the few places in the world where you can reliably dive with thresher sharks. Mactan-Cebu International Airport connects to Bohol, Siargao, Palawan and much of Asia, so Cebu makes a natural hub.

Cebu City

The historic core is compact. Magellan's Cross stands in a small pavilion with a painted ceiling, next to the Basilica Minore del Santo Niño, the spiritual heart of the island. Fort San Pedro, the smallest Spanish fort in the country, sits by the port. In the old Parian district, Casa Gorordo and the Yap-Sandiego Ancestral House show colonial home life. Up in the hills of Busay, the Temple of Leah and Tops Lookout give views over the city. Eat lechon, Cebu's famous roast pig, at Rico's or the House of Lechon, and try puso, rice cooked in woven coconut leaves, at the barbecue stalls of Larsian.

The south: Moalboal, Badian and Oslob

Moalboal's Panagsama Beach is a relaxed dive town. The sardine run is right off the shore, so snorkellers can join it, and Pescador Island has turtles and a coral wall. Nearby, canyoneering trips start upriver in Badian and jump, slide and swim down to Kawasan Falls. Osmeña Peak in Dalaguete is an easy hike to jagged green hills. Oslob is known for whale shark encounters that rely on feeding the animals; many marine scientists criticise this, so read about it before deciding.

The north: Malapascua and Bantayan

Malapascua is a small island with white sand and early morning dives at Monad Shoal for thresher sharks. Bantayan Island has long white beaches and a slow pace. Both take a long bus or van ride to the northern ports, then a boat.

Sinulog

The Sinulog festival, on the third Sunday of January, honours the Santo Niño with a huge street parade of dancers and drums. Book rooms months ahead if you plan to go.

Where to stay

In the city, IT Park and Cebu Business Park are safe and full of restaurants. Mactan Island, next to the airport, has big beach resorts. For the south, Moalboal makes a good base; for the north, stay on Malapascua or Bantayan.

Getting around

Grab and taxis work in the city. Buses from the South Bus Terminal run to Moalboal and Oslob, and from the North Bus Terminal to Hagnaya and Maya ports. Fast ferries link Cebu City with Bohol, Siquijor and other islands. Traffic in the city can be very slow at peak times.

Good to know

Cebu City is hot and busy, so plan outdoor sightseeing for early morning and late afternoon. The south coast is a long drive from the city, so stay at least two nights in Moalboal rather than doing it as a day trip. Bring cash for environmental fees, guides and small resorts, and book canyoneering with registered local guides who provide helmets and life jackets.