Bohol: the Chocolate Hills, tarsiers and Panglao

Why go

Bohol offers a bit of everything at an easy pace. Inland, more than a thousand grassy, cone shaped hills spread across the town of Carmen, turning chocolate brown in the dry months. In the forests of Corella, the Philippine tarsier, one of the world's smallest primates, clings to branches with enormous eyes. The Loboc River winds through jungle, and old coral stone churches stand in Baclayon, Loboc and Dauis. On Panglao, Alona Beach has diving, seafood and sunsets.

The countryside tour

Most visitors do a one day loop. Start at the Blood Compact Shrine in Tagbilaran, which marks the 1565 pact of friendship between Datu Sikatuna and the Spanish explorer Legazpi. Visit Baclayon Church, one of the oldest in the country, then the Philippine Tarsier Sanctuary in Corella, run by a foundation that protects the animals: keep quiet and never use flash. Float down the Loboc River on a lunch cruise, walk through the Bilar Man-Made Forest, and reach the Chocolate Hills viewing deck in Carmen in the afternoon. Hire a van with driver through your hotel, or rent a scooter if you are an experienced rider.

Avoid the roadside places that keep tarsiers in small enclosures for photos; the stress harms them. The Corella sanctuary is the responsible choice.

Panglao Island

Alona Beach is the busiest stretch of sand, lined with dive shops and restaurants. Dumaluan and Doljo beaches are quieter. Boat trips go to Balicasag Island for turtles and coral walls, and to Pamilacan for dolphin watching early in the morning. Hinagdanan Cave has a cool pool lit by sunlight through the roof. Bohol Bee Farm, on a cliff in Dauis, serves organic food and honey ice cream.

Further afield

In the east, Anda has white beaches and cave pools, and Can-Umantad Falls tumbles above rice terraces in Candijay. Danao Adventure Park offers ziplines over a gorge. These make good second day trips for anyone staying longer.

Getting there and around

Bohol-Panglao International Airport has domestic flights from Manila and some international routes. Fast ferries from Cebu take about two hours to Tagbilaran, and boats also connect to Siquijor and Dumaguete. Tricycles cover short hops; for the countryside, a hired van is easiest.

Where to stay

Panglao is the main base, with everything from hostels to cliff top resorts. Stay near Alona for convenience or further along the coast for calm. Loboc and Anda suit slower stays.

When to go

December to May is the driest period. Bohol sits in the path of some typhoons later in the year, and the 2013 earthquake damaged several churches, many since restored.

Food and local life

Bohol is known for calamay, a sticky sweet of coconut milk and sugar sold in coconut shells, and for fresh seafood grilled on Panglao. Try the peanut kisses, small cookies shaped like the Chocolate Hills. In towns, the Sunday market and the church square are the heart of community life, and fiestas for each town's patron saint bring music and processions. Loboc's children's choir has sung at events around the world.

Good to know

The countryside loop is a long day, so start early to reach the Chocolate Hills before the midday heat. Bring cash for entrance fees and small eateries, as cards are rarely taken outside Panglao. Wear modest clothes for church visits, and pack insect repellent for the forest stops. If you want to dive, Panglao has many dive centres; choose one with good safety standards.