The Sacred Valley and Machu Picchu: a first-timer's guide

Why go

Machu Picchu is one of the great sights of the world, an Inca estate of temples, terraces and houses built around 1450 on a mountain saddle. The valley leading to it is a destination in its own right, lower and warmer than Cusco, with ruins that see far fewer visitors and villages where weaving traditions are alive.

The valley towns

**Pisac** has a busy craft market and one of the finest Inca hilltop sites, with terraces sweeping round the mountain. **Urubamba** is the central town, with many hotels and lodges. **Ollantaytambo** is a living Inca town, still laid out on its original street plan, beneath a great temple fortress; it is also the main station for trains to Machu Picchu. Nearby, **Chinchero** has a Sunday market and weaving cooperatives, and the **Maras salt pans** and the circular terraces of **Moray** make a classic half day.

Machu Picchu: tickets and circuits

Entry is by timed ticket with a fixed route, called a circuit, and daily numbers are capped. Buy from the official Ministry of Culture site or a licensed agency, as early as you can, and carry the same passport you used to book. Some tickets add a climb up **Huayna Picchu** or **Machu Picchu Mountain**, which sell out first. Hire a licensed guide at the gate or in advance; rules on guides change, so check before you go. Circuits and rules are updated often, so confirm the current versions on the official site.

Getting there

Most people take the train from Ollantaytambo (or from near Cusco) to **Aguas Calientes**, also called Machu Picchu Pueblo, with **PeruRail** or **Inca Rail**. From the village, shuttle buses climb to the site, or you can walk up a steep stair path. There is no road to Aguas Calientes for normal traffic. Budget travellers sometimes go via Hidroeléctrica and walk along the tracks, but it is long and less reliable.

The Inca Trail and other treks

The classic four day **Inca Trail** ends at the Sun Gate above Machu Picchu. Permits are limited, sold only through licensed operators, and often gone months ahead. It closes each February for maintenance. A short one day version exists. Alternatives include the **Salkantay** trek past a glacier and the **Lares** trek through weaving villages.

When to go

May to September is dry and sunny but busy. The shoulder months of April and October are a good balance. From November to March it rains, often in the afternoon, and landslides can affect the railway.

Tips

Stay a night in Aguas Calientes if you want an early entry or a mountain climb. Bring your passport, insect repellent, rain layers and sun protection. Large bags are not allowed in the site, and there are no toilets inside, so go before you enter.

Where to stay

Urubamba and Ollantaytambo are the best valley bases, with everything from guesthouses to luxury lodges. Pisac suits people who want a quieter, more spiritual stay. Aguas Calientes is practical rather than pretty, but convenient for the first entry slots.