Lake Titicaca: a first-timer's guide to Puno and the islands

Why go

The lake feels like a sea in the sky, deep blue under huge clouds, with Bolivia's snowy peaks on the far shore. The communities around it, Aymara and Quechua, keep traditions of weaving, music and farming that visitors can share through respectful homestays. Puno is also Peru's folklore capital, with festivals that rival any in the Americas.

Puno

Puno is a working town rather than a pretty one, but it has a lively main street, **Jirón Lima**, a stone cathedral on the Plaza de Armas and viewpoints such as **Kuntur Wasi** and **Huajsapata** above town. The **Yavari**, a Victorian steamship carried over the Andes in pieces, is moored as a museum near the lakeshore.

The islands

The **Uros floating islands** are made from layers of totora reed, a short boat ride from Puno. Families explain how the islands are built and sell crafts; it is touristy, but genuinely unusual. **Taquile** is a hilly island known for its men's knitting, recognised by UNESCO, with stone paths, arches and lake views. **Amantaní** is further out and more rural, with Pachamama and Pachatata temples on its two hilltops. A night in a family homestay on Amantaní, or in the community of **Llachón** on the Capachica peninsula, is a highlight for many visitors. Bring small gifts of food or school supplies rather than sweets, and follow your host's lead.

Around the lake

**Sillustani**, about forty minutes from Puno, has tall circular burial towers called chullpas on a peninsula above Lake Umayo, beautiful in late afternoon light. Along the southern shore, the colonial churches of **Chucuito**, **Juli** and **Pomata** are worth a stop, especially if you are travelling on to Bolivia.

Festivals

The **Fiesta de la Virgen de la Candelaria** in early February is one of the largest festivals in South America, with tens of thousands of dancers in elaborate costumes. Book accommodation early if you plan to go, and expect crowds and celebrations late into the night.

Getting there

Fly into Juliaca and take a transfer or taxi to Puno, take a tourist or regular bus from Cusco or Arequipa, or ride the scenic but slower train from Cusco on the days it runs. Crossing to Copacabana in Bolivia is common; check the entry rules for your passport first.

Altitude and weather

Puno is higher than Cusco, so arrive after a few days at altitude if you can. Nights are freezing for much of the year and the sun is fierce by day, so pack warm layers, a hat and strong sunscreen. Protests in the south have closed roads at times, so check local news and your government's travel advice.

Food

Try fresh lake trout and pejerrey, quinoa soup and alpaca dishes, and on the islands, simple meals of potatoes, broad beans and herbal muña tea prepared by your hosts.

Where to stay

Stay near Jirón Lima and the plaza for convenience, or at one of the lakeside hotels south of town for views and calm. For the deepest experience, spend a night on Amantaní or in Llachón.