Port Moresby: a first-timer's guide to PNG's capital

Why visit Port Moresby

Port Moresby is the place to understand Papua New Guinea before you head out to its regions. The **National Museum and Art Gallery** in Waigani holds canoe prows, masks, shields and spirit boards from every province, a crash course in the country's astonishing diversity. Next door, **Parliament House** is built in the shape of a Sepik haus tambaran, or spirit house, with a soaring painted facade.

Harbour and coast

**Ela Beach** runs along the edge of the town centre and is busiest at weekends, when families picnic under the trees. Walk the promenade by day rather than at night. Out on the harbour, **Hanuabada** is a large village of houses on stilts built by the Motu Koita people, the original landowners. Visit with a local guide or a contact from the community rather than wandering in alone. The **Port Moresby Nature Park** at the University of PNG grounds is a safe, shady introduction to tree kangaroos, cassowaries and birds of paradise.

Into the hills

Around an hour's drive inland on the Sogeri Plateau, **Varirata National Park** has forest walks, lookouts over the coast and early morning displays of Raggiana birds of paradise, the national bird. The road passes the **Bomana War Cemetery**, the largest Commonwealth war cemetery in the Pacific, a moving stop for anyone walking Kokoda. The Kokoda Track itself starts at Owers' Corner at the end of this road.

Food and markets

Hotel restaurants and a handful of independent places in Waigani, Boroko and the waterfront area of Town serve good seafood, Asian dishes and Australian style cafe food. The **Gordons Market** is huge and lively but crowded, so go with a local friend if at all. Craft markets held at hotels and shopping centres on weekends are a safer way to buy bilums, carvings and shell jewellery.

Getting around and staying safe

Port Moresby is not a city for walking around or taking street transport. Use your hotel's shuttle, or a driver your hotel recommends, for every journey, and do not travel after dark. Most visitors stay in the Waigani, Boroko or Town areas, or near the airport. Keep valuables out of sight, carry only the cash you need, and if confronted, hand things over. Many travellers plan only a night or two here before connecting onward.

Plan your stay

Use the places to visit list for hotels, museums and restaurants, then the free trip planner to fit Port Moresby around your domestic flights.

A suggested first day

Start early at Varirata National Park for the birds, stop at Bomana War Cemetery on the drive back, then spend late morning in the National Museum and Art Gallery while it is cool. After lunch in Waigani, visit Parliament House next door and finish at the Nature Park in the afternoon, when the animals are more active. Be back at your hotel before dark, and eat in or at a hotel restaurant.

Practical tips

Change money or use ATMs inside hotels and shopping centres rather than on the street. Buy a local SIM at the airport or a mall so you can reach your hotel driver. Dress modestly, with shoulders and knees covered away from the beach. Ask before photographing people, and expect to be asked for a small gift if you photograph performers at events.