Panama City: a first-timer's guide to the capital

Why spend time in Panama City

Many travellers treat the capital as a layover, but it rewards three or four nights. The city sits where the Canal meets the Pacific, and almost every story about Panama, from Spanish treasure fleets to the American Canal Zone and the 1999 handover, can be seen here. For diaspora visitors it is often where family lives, and for nervous first-timers it is an easy, well-connected place to land.

The areas, explained

• **Casco Viejo (Casco Antiguo)** is the old walled city on a small peninsula, a UNESCO World Heritage Site of plazas, churches and restored mansions. It is the best area to stay for atmosphere, with boutique hotels, rooftop bars and the city's best restaurants. Stick to the restored, busy streets, especially at night.
• **The Cinta Costera** is the long waterfront park that runs from Casco Viejo past the fish market towards Punta Paitilla, popular for evening walks, cycling and skyline views.
• **El Cangrejo, Obarrio and Marbella** are central business and hotel districts with supermarkets, cafés and easy metro access.
• **Punta Pacífica and Costa del Este** are modern high-rise areas with big malls and hospitals.
• **The Amador Causeway** links three small islands to the mainland, with the Biomuseo, bike hire and views of ships queuing for the Canal.
• **Clayton and Ciudad del Saber**, in the old Canal Zone, are green and quiet, close to the locks and Soberanía.

Things to do

Watch ships transit at the **Miraflores Locks** visitor centre, ideally when vessels are moving, and visit the newer **Agua Clara** locks on the Atlantic side if you go to Colón. Walk Casco Viejo, from the Plaza de la Independencia and the Metropolitan Cathedral to the Golden Altar of San José and the Paseo Esteban Huertas along the sea wall. Explore **Panamá Viejo**, the ruins of the city founded in 1519 and sacked by the pirate Henry Morgan. Visit the colourful **Biomuseo** designed by Frank Gehry, then climb **Cerro Ancón** for a view over the whole city.

For nature, **Metropolitan Natural Park** is a rainforest reserve inside the city, and **Soberanía National Park** has the famous Pipeline Road for birdwatching. Boat trips on Gatun Lake let you see monkeys and pass huge ships in the Canal channel.

Food and nightlife

Start with the **Mercado de Mariscos** fish market for ceviche, then try sancocho, the national chicken soup, and patacones at a local fonda. Casco Viejo has the creative restaurants and rooftop bars, while Calle Uruguay and El Cangrejo are where locals go out. Friday nights are lively and fiestas run late.

Day trips

• **Portobelo** on the Caribbean, with Spanish forts and the Black Christ church, often combined with Isla Grande.
• **Isla Taboga**, the island of flowers, by ferry from the Amador Causeway.
• **El Valle de Antón**, a town in an old volcanic crater with waterfalls and hikes.
• **Emberá villages** on the Chagres River, visited by dugout canoe with a guide.

Getting around

The **Metro de Panamá** is clean, cheap and air conditioned, linking the centre with Albrook bus terminal and, on Line 2, towards Tocumen airport. Ride apps such as Uber work well and avoid haggling. Taxis do not use meters, so agree the fare before you get in. Traffic is heavy at rush hour and in rain.

Staying safe

Panama City is generally safe in the tourist areas, but petty theft and bag snatching happen. Avoid walking at night outside the busy parts of Casco Viejo, and do not wander into neighbouring El Chorrillo, Santa Ana or Curundú. Use ride apps after dark and keep phones out of sight on the street. Check your government's travel advice for the latest areas to avoid.