Bocas del Toro: Panama's Caribbean islands

Why go to Bocas del Toro

Bocas is where Panama shows its Caribbean side. Many families here descend from West Indian workers who came for the banana plantations, so you will hear English creole on the docks, smell coconut rice and patí pastries, and see clapboard houses painted in bright colours. The archipelago is also wonderfully varied: there are party hostels and quiet eco lodges, surf breaks and calm lagoon swimming, all a short boat ride apart.

The islands, explained

• **Isla Colón** is the main island and home to **Bocas Town**, with the airport, most restaurants, bars and dive shops. A road runs north to **Boca del Drago** and **Starfish Beach**, a calm bay where starfish rest in shallow water. Look but never pick them up.
• **Isla Carenero** is a few minutes by water taxi from town, with quieter hotels, overwater restaurants and a surf break.
• **Isla Bastimentos** has the Afro Caribbean village of Old Bank, the **Bastimentos Island National Marine Park**, **Red Frog Beach** and the long wild sands of **Wizard Beach**. Many beaches here have strong currents, so swim only where it is calm.
• **Cayos Zapatilla**, two uninhabited islands inside the marine park, are the postcard stop on most island hopping tours, with white sand and good snorkelling.
• **Isla Solarte, Isla San Cristóbal and Isla Popa** have small eco lodges and Ngäbe communities for a slower stay.

Things to do

The classic day is an **island hopping tour**: dolphin watching at Dolphin Bay, snorkelling at Coral Cay, lunch over the water and an afternoon on Zapatilla. Divers and snorkellers can explore hard coral gardens around Hospital Point and Crawl Cay. Surfers come from December to March and again in midsummer, when breaks like Paunch and Silverbacks fire.

On land, cycle the coastal road to Playa Bluff, where leatherback turtles nest in season, visit the **Nivida bat cave** on Bastimentos with a guide, or take a chocolate farm tour on the mainland near Almirante. Evenings mean sunset drinks on a dock and live music in Bocas Town.

Food

Try rondón, a coconut seafood stew, fresh lobster in season, patí and johnny cake from street vendors, and Caribbean style fried fish with coconut rice. Bocas Town also has a good spread of international cafés.

Getting there and around

Short domestic flights connect Panama City's Albrook airport with Isla Colón. Overland, take a bus or flight to David, then a shuttle over the mountains to Almirante and a water taxi across to Bocas Town. Shuttles also run from Boquete and from the Costa Rican border at Sixaola and Guabito. Between islands, water taxis are the only transport: agree the fare and pickup time first, and avoid crossings in rough weather or after dark.

When to go

Bocas does not follow the Pacific dry season. Rain can fall at any time, but **February to April** and **September to October** are often the calmest and sunniest. December and January can be windy and wet.

Staying safe

Bocas is relaxed, but petty theft happens in hostels and on beaches, and drugs are offered to tourists: penalties in Panama are severe. Strong currents on the open beaches of Bastimentos and Bluff have caused drownings, so swim only where locals say it is safe.