Karachi: Pakistan's great port city

Mazar-e-Quaid

The white marble **Mazar-e-Quaid** is the mausoleum of Muhammad Ali Jinnah, founder of Pakistan. Set in large gardens, it is a calm and dignified place, with a museum of Jinnah's life and a changing of the guard on national days. Dress modestly and expect security checks.

Colonial Karachi

The old centre around **Saddar** and **M. A. Jinnah Road** is full of grand stone buildings from the British era. **Frere Hall** is a Venetian Gothic hall in gardens, with a ceiling painted by the artist Sadequain and a book market on Sundays. The restored **Empress Market** is a Victorian clock towered hall full of spices, dried fruit and household goods. The **National Museum** has Indus Valley seals and Gandhara sculpture.

Clifton and the sea

The **Mohatta Palace Museum**, a pink stone mansion of 1927 in Clifton, hosts thoughtful exhibitions. **Clifton Beach** at Sea View is where families come at sunset for camel rides, corn on the cob and sea breezes; swimming is not advised. For quieter sand, the beaches west of the city such as **Hawke's Bay** and **French Beach** are best reached by car with someone who knows the way, and green turtles nest at Hawke's Bay in season.

Harbour and islands

A boat from **Keamari** crosses the harbour to **Manora**, with a lighthouse, an old temple and a quiet beach. **Port Grand**, on an old bridge near the harbour, is an evening food and leisure strip.

Eating in Karachi

Karachi is the capital of **biryani** in Pakistan, spicier than elsewhere, and of **nihari**, **haleem** and **bun kebab**. **Burns Road** is the famous old food street, while **Do Darya** in DHA has open air seafood restaurants on the water. Try Irani style chai, the fried fish of the coast and **gola ganda**, a shaved ice treat.

Shopping

**Zainab Market** in Saddar is the classic stop for leather jackets, embroidered fabric and souvenirs, and **Bohri Bazaar** next door is a maze of cloth and wedding stalls. For modern brands, the big malls in Clifton have food courts and cinemas. Bargain politely in the markets, and keep small notes ready.

A day trip east

The **Chaukhandi Tombs**, on the city's eastern edge, are a field of intricately carved sandstone graves from the fifteenth to eighteenth centuries. Further out, the great necropolis of **Makli** near Thatta is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the largest graveyards in the world.

Where to stay

**Clifton** and **DHA** are the most comfortable areas, close to the sea front, malls and restaurants. The big international hotels around **Club Road** and **Saddar** are central and secure.

Safety and getting around

Karachi has a reputation for street crime, especially phone snatching, and a history of political violence, so check your government's travel advice before you go. Use ride apps rather than street taxis, keep your phone out of sight on the roadside, avoid walking alone at night and steer clear of demonstrations. Traffic is heavy, so allow plenty of time for the airport. Summer is hot and humid, and the monsoon in July and August can flood roads.