Skardu and Baltistan: lakes, palaces and the road to K2

The lakes

Just outside town, **Lower Kachura Lake** is home to the famous **Shangrila Resort**, with its pagoda roofed restaurant and red roofed chalets reflected in the water. A short drive and walk away, **Upper Kachura Lake** is clearer, quieter and fringed with trees, and boats take you across. **Sadpara Lake**, on the road towards Deosai, is a reservoir below bare mountains.

Deosai National Park

The **Deosai Plains** are one of the highest plateaus on earth, at about four thousand metres, a rolling sea of grass and wildflowers that is snow covered for most of the year. In summer, usually from late June to September, jeeps cross the plateau past **Sheosar Lake**. It is a stronghold of the Himalayan brown bear, as well as marmots and golden eagles. Go with a local jeep driver, bring warm layers, and be aware of altitude.

Katpana Cold Desert

Right beside the airport, the **Katpana** dunes are a surreal sight: pale sand under snow peaks, sometimes dusted with snow in winter. Sunset is the best time, and camel and jeep rides are offered in season.

Shigar and Khaplu

North of Skardu, the **Shigar Fort**, a seventeenth century Balti palace, has been restored by the Aga Khan Trust for Culture as a museum and heritage hotel. Further east along the Shyok River, **Khaplu Palace** is another graceful restored residence with gardens, now also a hotel. Khaplu's old **Chaqchan Mosque**, with Kashmiri style woodwork, is one of the oldest in the region. Both make wonderful overnight stays.

Old Skardu

**Kharpocho Fort** sits on a rock above the town and is worth the steep climb for the view over the Indus. The **Manthal Buddha Rock**, a carving of the Buddha on a granite boulder, recalls the region's Buddhist past.

Treks and the road to K2

Skardu is the gateway to some of the world's greatest treks, including the **K2 Base Camp and Concordia** trek along the Baltoro Glacier. These need a licensed operator, permits and serious preparation; check the rules with the Gilgit-Baltistan authorities and choose an experienced company. Gentler day walks start from Shigar, Khaplu and the Basho valley.

Eating in Baltistan

Balti cooking is hearty mountain food. Try **mamtu**, steamed dumplings, **gyal**, a buckwheat pancake, **marzan**, a dough dish eaten with apricot oil, and salty butter tea. Skardu's apricots and cherries are superb in summer, and dried apricots and almonds make good gifts to take home.

Getting there

The quickest way in is a flight from **Islamabad**, one of the most spectacular in the world, past Nanga Parbat. Some international flights have also started to land at Skardu, so check current routes. Flights are weather dependent and often cancelled, so leave spare days. The road via the **Karakoram Highway** and the Indus gorge, or via the Deosai plateau in summer, is long and rugged.

Practicalities

Baltistan is mainly Shia Muslim and conservative, so dress modestly and ask before taking photos of people. Bring enough cash, as ATMs are limited and can fail. Nights are cold even in summer. The main season runs from May to October, with apricot blossom in April and golden colours in late October.