Ohrid: a guide to North Macedonia's lake of churches

Why go

Lake Ohrid is one of the oldest lakes in the world, with species found nowhere else, and the town on its shore has been a centre of religion and scholarship since Saint Clement and Saint Naum founded schools here in the ninth century. Today it mixes deep history with lazy swims, lakeside cafés and summer festivals.

The old town

Start at the harbour and climb the lanes of the old quarter, known as Varoš. The **Church of Saint Sophia** holds some of the most important medieval frescoes in the region. Higher up, the **Ancient Theatre** still hosts summer performances, and **Samuel's Fortress** crowns the hill with views over the whole lake. Below it, at **Plaošnik**, the rebuilt Church of Saint Panteleimon stands on the site of Saint Clement's school, with early Christian mosaics around it.

The classic Ohrid view is the **Church of Saint John at Kaneo**, a small church on a cliff above the water. Walk there along the cliffside path or take a short boat from the harbour at sunset. Don't miss the **Icon Gallery** near the Church of Saint Clement, also called Perivleptos, or the **Robevi House** museum.

Around the lake

The road south passes beaches and villages to the **Bay of Bones**, a reconstructed Bronze Age village on stilts, and on to the **Monastery of Saint Naum** near the Albanian border, where rowing boats glide over the clear springs that feed the lake. Above it all rises **Galičica National Park**, with a mountain road and hikes that look over both Lake Ohrid and Lake Prespa. Struga, on the north shore, has a riverside promenade and the famous Struga Poetry Evenings in August.

Where to eat

Try lake trout dishes, though the native Ohrid trout is protected and fishing it is restricted, so you will usually be served other lake or farmed fish. Order tavče gravče, grilled vegetables and local cheese, and finish with a slice of burek for breakfast.

Where to stay

Stay in the old town for character and views, or along the shore south of town for beach access. In July and August book well ahead.

Good to know

July and August are busy and warm, with the Ohrid Summer Festival in full swing. May, June and September are calmer. Winter is quiet, with some places closed. Remember UNESCO has raised concerns about development on the shore, so choose stays that respect the lake.

Getting there and around

Ohrid airport is about fifteen minutes from town, with taxis waiting for flights; in summer it has direct links to several European cities. Buses connect Ohrid with Skopje, Bitola and Struga, and some cross to Albania. The old town is best on foot, but it is steep, with cobbled lanes, so wear good shoes. Local buses and taxis run along the shore to the beaches, and in summer boats sail from the harbour to Saint Naum.

A suggested first day

Have breakfast on the quay, then walk up through the old town to Saint Sophia, the Ancient Theatre and Samuel's Fortress. Come down via Plaošnik and follow the cliff path to Saint John at Kaneo. Swim at Kaneo beach, eat fish by the water, and return to the harbour for an evening stroll.