Tikveš: a guide to North Macedonia's wine country

Why go

North Macedonia makes far more wine than most visitors expect, and much of it comes from Tikveš. The local red grape **Vranec** gives dark, full bodied wines, and **Temjanika**, an aromatic white, is a local favourite. Visiting the wineries is an easy, relaxed way to meet producers and taste food made to go with the wine.

The wineries

**Tikveš Winery** in Kavadarci is the largest and oldest, with a cellar, a tasting room and guided visits. **Stobi Winery**, near the ancient city of the same name, is a modern estate with a restaurant. **Popova Kula** in Demir Kapija sits on a hillside with a guesthouse and views over the valley. Many smaller family wineries open by appointment, so it helps to arrange visits in advance or join an organised wine tour from Skopje.

Stobi

The ruins of **Stobi**, near Gradsko, were once a major Roman and early Christian city at a crossroads of trade routes. You can walk among the theatre, basilicas, villas and colourful floor mosaics, and it combines perfectly with a winery lunch.

Demir Kapija and Lake Tikveš

**Demir Kapija**, the Iron Gate, is a narrow gorge where the Vardar river cuts through the rock. It is popular for climbing and walking. South of Kavadarci, **Lake Tikveš** is a large reservoir in quiet hills with old monasteries along its shores.

The harvest

September is the best time to visit, when the grape harvest is under way and Kavadarci holds its **Wine Carnival**, with a parade, music and plenty of local wine. Summer is very hot in the valley, so spring and autumn are the most comfortable.

Where to eat and stay

Eat at winery restaurants or village taverns, where grilled meats, local cheeses and seasonal vegetables come with the wine. There are rooms at some wineries and small hotels in Kavadarci and Negotino.

Good to know

If you plan to taste, don't drive. North Macedonia has a very low drink driving limit and police checks are common. Book a tour or arrange a taxi between wineries instead.

Getting there and around

Kavadarci and Negotino are about an hour south of Skopje on the motorway towards Greece, and buses run from the capital's main bus station. Demir Kapija lies further south on the same route. Between the wineries, taxis are the simplest option, and many wineries can help arrange transport if you ask when you book. Organised wine tours from Skopje take care of tastings, lunch and the driving in one easy day.

A suggested day

Start at Stobi in the morning, before the heat, and walk through the theatre and basilicas. Have lunch and a tasting at a nearby winery, then continue to Kavadarci for a cellar tour at one of the larger estates. If you are staying, end the day at Popova Kula in Demir Kapija, with a glass of Vranec as the sun goes down over the valley.