Ghadames: the pearl of the Libyan Sahara

Why visit Ghadames

The old town of Ghadames is a masterpiece of desert architecture. Houses are packed together so tightly that the streets below are almost entirely covered, staying cool and shaded even in the summer heat. Men used the streets, while women moved across the rooftops on their own network of paths. Inside, family houses are painted in red with white patterns and hung with mirrors, copper pots and woven baskets.

Families moved to a modern town next door in the late twentieth century, but they still care for their old houses and return for celebrations, and some open them to visitors for tea or a meal.

Before anything else, read your government's current travel advice for Libya. At the time of writing the UK, US, Canada and Australia all advise against all travel to the country, and many insurers will not cover you while that advice stands. Ghadames is near the Algerian and Tunisian borders, an area where governments warn of specific risks, so visits are arranged by licensed operators with the right permissions.

What to see

• **The old town**: walk the covered lanes with a local guide, past small squares, mosques and the old meeting places of each family clan.
• **A traditional house**: climb to the reception room to see the painted walls and the light wells that keep it bright and cool.
• **Ain al-Faras**: the spring at the heart of the oasis, whose water was shared out by an ancient timing system.
• **The palm gardens**: date gardens watered by old canals on the edge of town.
• **Ras al-Ghoul**: a rocky hill with an old fort and views over the oasis.
• **The dunes**: the sand sea begins just outside town and is beautiful at sunset.

The Ghadames Festival

Each autumn, usually in October, the town holds a festival with Tuareg and Ghadamsi music, crafts, traditional dress and camel races. It is the best time to see the old town alive, but dates change, so confirm before you plan.

Food

Try mafrouka, a local dish of finely broken bread with dates and butter, couscous, and sweet green tea poured from a height. Dates from the gardens are excellent. Families sometimes host visitors for a meal in an old house, which your operator can arrange.

Getting there

Ghadames is a long drive from Tripoli across the Nafusa Mountains, passing Nalut and its fortified granary on the way, or a domestic flight when one is running. Roads have checkpoints and services are sparse, so this is not a place to travel independently.

Practical tips

Winter days are pleasant but desert nights get cold, so bring layers. Summers are extremely hot. Dress modestly, ask before photographing people, especially women, and remove your shoes when entering homes. Carry enough cash, as there are few banks.

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