Cyrene: Greek ruins on Libya's Green Mountain

Why visit Cyrene

Cyrene was a Greek colony that grew rich on grain, horses and a now vanished medicinal plant called silphium. It became a centre of learning, home to philosophers and mathematicians, and later a Roman provincial city. Its setting is unlike any other ancient site in Libya: green hills, juniper and cypress, cool air and wide views over the sea.

Before anything else, read your government's current travel advice for Libya. At the time of writing the UK, US, Canada and Australia all advise against all travel to the country, and many insurers will not cover you while that advice stands. Cyrene lies in eastern Libya, under separate authorities from Tripoli, and is reached from Benghazi with a licensed operator.

What to see

• **The Sanctuary of Apollo**: the sacred heart of the city, on a terrace by the spring, with temples, altars, baths and a theatre on the edge of the slope.
• **The Fountain of Apollo**: the spring that drew the first settlers still runs from a tunnel in the rock.
• **The Temple of Zeus**: once larger than the Parthenon in Athens, now partly re-erected column by column.
• **The Agora and the upper city**: public buildings, a gymnasium and streets along the ridge.
• **The Necropolis**: thousands of tombs carved into the cliffs and scattered across the hills, one of the largest ancient cemeteries anywhere.
• **The museum**: statues and sculpture from the site; check whether it is open.

Apollonia

Below Cyrene on the coast, the port of Apollonia, today's Susa, has Byzantine churches, a theatre cut into the hillside and parts of the ancient harbour now under the sea. It is a lovely place to end the day by the water.

The Green Mountain

The Jebel Akhdar is Libya's greenest region, with farms, forests and cooler weather. Wadi al-Kuf is a deep gorge crossed by a high bridge, with caves and walks. Ras al-Hilal is a beautiful cove where the mountains meet the sea. On the way from Benghazi you can stop at the Byzantine mosaics of Qasr Libya and the strange carved sanctuary of Slonta.

Where to stay

Shahhat has a few simple options, and Al Bayda, a short drive away, has a wider choice of hotels. Many visitors spend a night in Al Bayda to see Cyrene and Apollonia without rushing.

Food

The mountain is known for honey, lamb and olive oil. Roadside grills serve lamb with salads and bread, and coastal towns have fish. Try asida, a thick sweet porridge eaten with date syrup and butter, especially around Eid and family celebrations.

Practical tips

Spring is the best season, when the hills are green and flowers are out. Wear good shoes for the steep paths. The weather can be cool and damp in winter. Carry cash, keep your documents with you for checkpoints, and do not photograph military or security posts.

Combine Cyrene with Benghazi and use the free trip planner to fit the drive times into your route.