Semonkong: the Maletsunyane Falls and the highland plateau

Why visit Semonkong

The drive from Maseru through Roma and over the Ramabanta and Thaba Putsoa passes is one of the most beautiful in Lesotho, and the reward at the end is a waterfall to rival any in southern Africa. Semonkong has a rough, frontier character: wool and mohair from the surrounding plateau are sold here, donkeys carry goods through the streets and horses are tied outside the shops.

The Maletsunyane Falls

A short walk from the village leads to viewpoints opposite the falls. They are at their most powerful after summer rains, roughly December to March, and can partly freeze in a hard winter. A longer, steep path leads down into the gorge for those with good knees. Bearded vultures and other raptors often ride the thermals above the cliffs.

The abseil

The Maletsunyane abseil, run through Semonkong Lodge, is recognised as the longest commercially operated single-drop abseil in the world. You descend the cliff face beside the falls, then hike back out of the gorge. No experience is needed, as instructors give full training first, but you need a head for heights and decent fitness. It is weather dependent, so build in a spare day.

Pony trekking and hiking

Guided rides and walks reach remote villages, viewpoints and the **Ketane Falls**, a full day or overnight trip away. Multi-day treks link Semonkong with Malealea through roadless country. Ask the lodge about the light-hearted donkey pub crawl around local shebeens if you want something different.

Getting there

From Maseru, drive south to Roma and continue east on the tarred road via Ramabanta. It takes around three hours with photo stops. Minibus taxis and buses run from Maseru, usually leaving in the morning when full. Fill up with fuel in Maseru or Roma and try to arrive in daylight, as the road is steep and livestock wander onto it.

Where to stay and eat

Semonkong Lodge, on the river below town, is the main base, with rooms, rondavels, camping and a restaurant and bar. Ramabanta Trading Post Lodge, on the way, makes a good stop for a night. In town there are small shops and simple eateries selling papa and meat.

Practical tips

Semonkong is high and cold, so bring warm layers, a hat and a rain jacket in every season. Carry enough cash, as banking services are limited. Ask before taking photographs of people, and greet with a friendly lumela.

A sample two-night stay

Leave Maseru in the morning and stop at Roma and the Ramabanta viewpoints on the way. Check in at the lodge, then walk out to the falls viewpoint for the late afternoon light. Spend the next day on the abseil, or on a pony ride or hike along the gorge rim, and finish with dinner by the fire. If you have an extra day, ride to the Ketane Falls, a long but unforgettable trip across the plateau. Leave early on the last morning, as the road back is slow and the light on the passes is beautiful before midday.