Sani Pass: the road to the roof of southern Africa

Why visit Sani Pass

Sani is one of the most famous mountain roads on the continent. For generations it was a mule track used by traders, and it remains a thrilling drive with switchbacks, waterfalls and the cliffs of the Drakensberg on every side. At the top you cross into a different world: wind-swept grassland, stone shelters and Basotho herders in blankets tending sheep and goats.

The drive

The road starts near Underberg and Himeville in South Africa, passing the South African border post partway up. The Lesotho border post sits at the summit. The Lesotho side and much of the approach have been tarred in recent years, but the upper switchbacks are steep and conditions can be icy or misty. Many travellers book a guided 4x4 day tour from Underberg rather than driving themselves; check current road conditions and whether a 4x4 is required before you go.

Things to do

• **Sani Mountain Lodge**: stop for a drink at the highest pub in Africa, with a view straight down the pass.
• **Thabana Ntlenyana**: southern Africa's highest peak, at around 3,482 metres, is a long but non-technical day hike from the top. Go with a local guide, as mist rolls in quickly and paths are faint.
• **Hodgson's Peaks and the escarpment edge**: shorter walks with huge views over the Drakensberg.
• **Village visit**: herders' families at Sani Top often welcome guests for steamed bread and tea, arranged through guides.
• **Black Mountain Pass**: drive on toward Mokhotlong for even higher, wilder scenery.
• **Snow**: in winter Sani often turns white, a rare sight in Africa.

Where to stay

Sani Mountain Lodge at the top has rooms and backpacker beds, plus a restaurant. Staying a night lets you see sunrise over the escarpment and hike without rushing. Many travellers base themselves in Underberg or Himeville on the South African side, which have a wide range of guest houses.

Border tips

The Sani Pass border posts have limited daytime hours that change from time to time. Check the current hours with the South African and Lesotho authorities, carry your passport and any visas you need for both countries, and allow time for both posts. Vehicles hired in South Africa need written permission to cross into Lesotho.

Weather and safety

At nearly 3,000 metres the weather is extreme. Summer brings afternoon thunderstorms, winter brings snow and temperatures far below freezing, and the wind is fierce year round. Pack warm layers, waterproofs and sun protection, and do not hike alone. There are no medical facilities at the top.

A sample itinerary

Spend the night before in Underberg or Himeville so you can start up the pass in the morning, when the light is clear and the borders have just opened. Stop at the waterfalls and switchbacks for photographs, complete the formalities at both posts and reach the lodge for an early lunch. In the afternoon, walk to the escarpment edge or visit a herder's home. If you stay the night, rise for sunrise over the Drakensberg and set out with a guide for Thabana Ntlenyana. Otherwise, continue toward Mokhotlong over Black Mountain Pass, or head back down to South Africa before the border closes.