Maseru: a first-timer's guide to Lesotho's capital

Why visit Maseru

Most visitors arrive in Maseru by air or across the Maseru Bridge border post from Ladybrand in South Africa. It is the best place in the country to change money, buy a local SIM card, fill up on fuel and supplies, and get a first feel for Basotho life before heading into the mountains. Give it a day and it rewards you with good crafts, a proud history and friendly people.

Things to do in Maseru

• **Basotho Hat craft centre**: the shop shaped like the conical mokorotlo hat on Kingsway is a city landmark, selling grass hats, baskets, mohair weaving and blankets from all over the country.
• **Thaba Bosiu**: about half an hour east of the city, this mountain fortress was never taken by force. Walk to the top with a guide to see the royal graves and ruins, then visit the cultural village below, with its museum and statue of Moshoeshoe I. The nearby pointed hill of Qiloane is said to have inspired the shape of the Basotho hat.
• **Our Lady of Victories Cathedral**: the city's great Catholic church, where Sunday choirs are a moving experience.
• **Maseru Central Market**: produce, blankets and street food close to the main taxi ranks.
• **Ha Baroana**: San rock paintings in a sandstone shelter on the road east of the city.

Day trips from Maseru

The mission town of **Morija**, about an hour south, has the Morija Museum and Archives and dinosaur footprints on the hill above town. **Roma**, home to the National University of Lesotho, sits in a lovely sandstone valley with walking trails, rock art and the historic Trading Post Lodge. North of the city, the **Ha Kome Cave Village** near Teyateyaneng has mud homes built into sandstone overhangs, and Teyateyaneng itself is known for mohair weaving. East of Maseru, the road climbs **Bushman's Pass** toward Mohale Dam, an easy first taste of the mountains.

Where to stay

The big hotels are the Avani Maseru and Avani Lesotho, side by side on the hill above the centre, with pools and restaurants. Lancers Inn on Kingsway has garden rooms within walking distance of shops, and smaller guest houses and boutique hotels are spread through Maseru West. Book ahead around national holidays and big conferences.

Food and drink

Try papa, the stiff maize porridge served with moroho greens, chakalaka and grilled meat at local eateries, or join the lunch crowd at street grills near the taxi ranks. Hotel restaurants and the malls offer familiar international dishes. Maluti is the local beer, brewed in Maseru.

Getting around

Shared minibus taxis run fixed routes across the city and to most towns. Four plus one taxis (small cars carrying five passengers) cover city routes cheaply. For a private ride, ask your hotel to call a taxi. Walking in the centre by day is fine, but take a taxi after dark.

Safety

Maseru has higher levels of crime than the countryside. Keep valuables out of sight, avoid walking alone at night, use ATMs inside malls or banks, and keep car doors locked in traffic. Check your government's current travel advice before you go.