South Tarawa: a first-timer's guide to the capital

Getting your bearings

South Tarawa runs roughly east to west along the southern edge of Tarawa lagoon. From the airport at **Bonriki** in the east, a single main road heads west through **Temaiku**, **Bikenibeu**, **Eita**, **Ambo**, **Teaoraereke** and **Nanikaai** to **Bairiki**, the government centre, and finally across the long causeway to Betio, the port. Nearly everything you need is somewhere along this road, which makes navigation easy: you are always heading either towards the airport or towards Betio.

Bairiki and the government quarter

**Bairiki** holds ministries, banks, the post office and the national stadium. **Bairiki Square** is where national celebrations gather, and on Independence Day in July it fills with dancers, singers and families. The **Kiribati Philatelic Bureau** sells the country's colourful stamps, a light and unusual souvenir. In the evening, walk out along the **Nanikaai causeway** to watch the sun set over the lagoon.

Ambo and the parliament

The **Maneaba ni Maungatabu**, the national parliament, stands at **Ambo** on its own islet by the lagoon. It is built in the form of a traditional maneaba, the open-sided meeting house that sits at the heart of every I-Kiribati village. Nearby, the lagoon beach at Ambo is one of the most pleasant places to swim on South Tarawa, and the **Ambo Lagoon Club** has long been a sunset gathering point.

Bikenibeu and the museum

At **Bikenibeu**, the **Kiribati National Cultural Centre and Museum** is a must for first-time visitors. Displays of coconut fibre armour, shark tooth swords, fishing gear and canoe models show how people thrived on atolls with almost no soil and no fresh streams. Bikenibeu also has the main hospital, shops and some of the longer-established hotels such as the **Otintaai Hotel**.

Everyday life along the road

What makes South Tarawa memorable is not one sight but daily life: children playing in the lagoon, fishermen launching outriggers, families gathered in roadside maneaba, choirs practising in the evening and minibuses packed with chatter. Ride a minibus the length of the road at least once. Sunday church services, Catholic and Protestant, are moving even if you are not religious; dress modestly and arrive early.

Food and drink

Eating out is simple. Expect fried reef fish and rice, tuna sashimi, Chinese restaurants, small bakeries and hotel restaurants. Local specialities such as babai (giant swamp taro), breadfruit and coconut toddy syrup are best tasted with a host family. Drink bottled or treated water only.

Where to stay

Accommodation is limited and simple: a handful of hotels, motels and guesthouses spread between Bairiki and Bikenibeu. Book ahead, especially around national holidays and when conferences are on. Ask about air conditioning, generator backup and water supply. Our places to visit list names the main options.

Practical tips

South Tarawa is crowded and the road is busy, so take care walking at night, when lighting is poor and dogs can be territorial. Bring cash, as cards are rarely accepted. Power and water cuts happen; carry a torch and a refillable bottle. Use the free trip planner to match your stay to the flight days.