North Tarawa: quiet villages and lagoon beaches

What makes North Tarawa special

Where South Tarawa is crowded and busy, North Tarawa is how much of Kiribati still lives. Families build homes of local timber and thatch, fish the lagoon in outrigger canoes, cut toddy from coconut palms at dawn and dusk and gather in the village maneaba for meetings, feasts and dances. Life follows the tides, and the pace is slow and gentle.

Buota: the easy first step

The village of **Buota** is linked to the eastern end of South Tarawa by a bridge from **Tanaea**, close to the airport. At high tide the water rushes under the **Buota Bridge**, and local children jump from it; at slack water it is a lovely place to swim and picnic. Buota itself is a good taste of village life without needing a boat.

Further north

Beyond Buota, the islets of North Tarawa continue for many kilometres around the eastern side of the lagoon, through villages such as **Abatao**, **Tabiteuea**, **Abaokoro**, **Nabeina** and finally **Buariki** at the northern tip. Many are separated by shallow channels you can wade across at low tide with a local guide, while others are best reached by boat from South Tarawa across the lagoon.

Things to do

• **Low tide reef walks** between islets, with someone who knows the channels and tides.
• **Swimming and snorkelling** in calm, clear lagoon water.
• **Village visits** and an invitation to sit in a maneaba, a real privilege.
• **Watching toddy cutters** climb palms and **pandanus weaving** in the shade.
• **Bonefishing** on the sand flats, arranged with a local operator.
• **Doing nothing at all**, which is very much the point.

Where to stay

Stays are simple: village homestays and a few basic island bungalows, often without reliable power or running water. Arrange through a trusted contact or the Kiribati National Tourism Office before you go, and confirm what is included, especially meals, drinking water and boat transfers.

Etiquette in the villages

Dress modestly, covering shoulders and knees, and swim in shorts and a T shirt near villages. Ask before entering a maneaba, follow your host's lead about where to sit and never step over people sitting on mats. A small gift, such as food or useful supplies, is appreciated when you stay with a family. Sunday is for church and rest, so plan quiet days then.

A sample two night stay

On the first day, take a minibus to Tanaea, cross the Buota Bridge and meet your host. Spend the afternoon swimming and watching the tide. The next morning, walk north with a guide at low tide, stopping in villages along the way, and spend the second night further up the atoll. Return by boat across the lagoon to South Tarawa, enjoying the view of the long chain of islets from the water. Agree on every step with your host before you set off.

Practical tips

Bring plenty of drinking water, cash, sun protection, insect repellent and a torch. There is little or no mobile signal in parts of the north. Tides matter: crossing channels on a rising tide can be dangerous, so always go with a local. Weather can make boat crossings rough; leave a spare day before any flight. See the South Tarawa guide for supplies and the free trip planner to fit a stay into your dates.