Kiritimati: Christmas Island's flats, birds and first sunrise

Why go

Kiritimati is one of the great fly fishing destinations of the world. Its endless, wadeable sand flats hold bonefish in remarkable numbers, while the reef edges and channels hold giant trevally, triggerfish and milkfish. Many visitors come on fishing packages that include guides, boats and meals. Even if you never cast a line, the scale of the lagoon, the clarity of the water and the seabird colonies make this an unforgettable place.

The island in brief

The island was sighted by Captain James Cook on Christmas Eve in 1777, which gave it its name. In the twentieth century it hosted coconut plantations and then, in the late 1950s and early 1960s, British and American nuclear weapons tests, which left a complicated legacy still discussed today. Most of the population lives in a few villages on the northwest: **London**, **Tabwakea**, **Banana** and the more remote **Poland**.

Birds and nature

The island is a major seabird breeding ground. Sooty terns, frigatebirds, boobies, noddies, shearwaters and red-tailed tropicbirds nest here, and the endemic **Kiritimati reed warbler**, known locally as the bokikokiko, lives only in the Line Islands. Sanctuary islets such as **Cook Island** and **Motu Tabu** are protected, and visits need permission from the **Wildlife Conservation Unit**. Never disturb nesting birds, and keep well back from colonies.

Things to do

• **Fly fishing** the flats and reef edges with a licensed local guide.
• **Birdwatching** at sanctuaries and along remote shores, with the proper permits.
• **Snorkelling** near the lagoon entrance at slack tide.
• **Beachcombing** at the wild **Bay of Wrecks** on the windward side.
• **Village visits** in London and Tabwakea, especially on Sundays for church singing.
• **Watching the first sunrise**: the Line Islands sit in the earliest time zone on earth.

Getting there

A weekly Fiji Airways service links Kiritimati with Nadi and Honolulu. That makes most trips exactly one week long, and a delay can mean an extra week, so travel insurance and flexibility are essential. There is no simple direct link to Tarawa: travelling between the two usually means going via Nadi.

Where to stay

Stays include the long-running **Captain Cook Hotel** at Main Camp and a handful of fishing lodges and guesthouses, most sold as packages. Book well ahead and confirm what is included: guiding, boats, meals and airport transfers are often bundled.

A typical week

Most visitors arrive on the weekly flight, settle into their lodge and spend five or six days on the water, with guides driving out to different flats each morning according to tide and wind. Non-anglers can mix birdwatching trips with snorkelling, village visits and long beach walks. Sundays are quieter, with church in the villages. On the last day, pack early: the return flight timing depends on the aircraft's arrival from the other direction, and delays happen.

Food and supplies

Meals are mostly provided by your lodge: fresh fish, rice, simple stews and imported basics. Village stores sell tinned goods, bread and drinks, but stock depends on the supply ship. Bring any special foods or snacks you rely on.

Practical tips

Bring all the fishing gear, medicines, sun protection and toiletries you need; shops are limited. Cash in Australian dollars is essential. Medical care is very basic, so make sure your insurance covers evacuation. Respect fishing rules, which are catch and release for bonefish. Use the free trip planner to line up your international connections.