Killarney and Kerry: lakes, mountains and the Ring of Kerry

Why go

Killarney has welcomed tourists since Victorian times, and it shows: the town is set up for visitors, with plenty of pubs, music and places to stay. Step out of town and you are in **Killarney National Park**, with lakes, waterfalls, red deer and Ireland's highest mountain range, the MacGillycuddy's Reeks. It is one of the easiest places in Ireland to enjoy wild scenery without a car.

Killarney National Park

**Muckross House** is a Victorian mansion with gardens and traditional working farms. From there, a short woodland walk leads to **Torc Waterfall**. **Ross Castle**, a fifteenth century tower house on Lough Leane, is the starting point for boat trips on the lakes. Rent a bike in town and cycle the flat lakeside paths, or ride with a jarvey in a horse drawn **jaunting car**, a Killarney tradition. **Ladies View** gives a famous free view over the lakes.

The **Gap of Dunloe** is a narrow mountain pass between the Reeks and Purple Mountain. A classic day combines a pony and trap or walk through the gap with a boat back across the lakes to Ross Castle.

The Ring of Kerry

The **Ring of Kerry** is a scenic loop of roughly one hundred and eighty kilometres around the Iveragh Peninsula, through Killorglin, Glenbeigh, Cahersiveen, Waterville, Sneem and Kenmare. Coaches traditionally travel anticlockwise, so drivers often go the other way to avoid getting stuck behind them. A tour is the easiest way to see it. Don't miss the **Skellig Ring**, a quieter side loop near Portmagee with dramatic views, and the **Kerry Bog Village Museum** at Glenbeigh.

Skellig Michael

**Skellig Michael** is a UNESCO World Heritage island where monks built stone beehive huts over a thousand years ago. Landing trips run from Portmagee from about mid May to September, in limited numbers and only in calm seas. Book months ahead and be prepared for cancellations. The climb involves hundreds of uneven steps with no rails.

The Dingle Peninsula

**Dingle** is a colourful harbour town with pubs, good restaurants and **Murphy's Ice Cream**. The **Slea Head Drive** loops past beehive huts, beaches and views to the Blasket Islands. Dick Mack's is a pub where you drink among old leather tools. Much of the peninsula is a Gaeltacht, where Irish is spoken daily.

Food and drink

Try Kerry lamb, fresh seafood, brown bread and local cheeses. Killarney has plenty of hearty pub meals, and Dingle and Kenmare are known for fine food. Most pubs on Killarney's Main Street and High Street have music in the evening.

Where to stay

Killarney town is the most practical base, with options from hostels to lakeside hotels. Kenmare and Dingle are quieter and charming. Summer and festival weekends book up, so reserve early.

Getting there

Trains reach Killarney from Dublin with a change at Mallow, and buses link it with Cork, Limerick and Kerry Airport.

Tips for a smooth visit

Kerry's weather is changeable, and mountain cloud can hide the views, so plan scenic days around the forecast. If you walk in the national park or the Reeks, carry layers, water and a map, and tell someone your route. Carrauntoohil, Ireland's highest peak, is a serious climb that needs experience or a guide. Pony and trap and jaunting car prices should be agreed before you set off.