Cork: Ireland's food capital and its harbour towns

Why go

Cork is relaxed, walkable and full of character. It is the place to eat well, with farmers, cheesemakers and fishmongers bringing produce to the city, and it is the starting point for some of the most beautiful coast in Ireland. For anyone with Irish roots, nearby Cobh is one of the most meaningful places in the country, the port from which millions left.

The city

The **English Market**, trading since 1788, is the heart of Cork. Taste local cheeses, buttered eggs, spiced beef and fresh fish, and eat upstairs at **Farmgate Café**. Climb the tower at **St Anne's Church, Shandon**, and ring its famous bells yourself, then visit the quirky **Cork Butter Museum** next door. **St Fin Barre's Cathedral** is a Gothic Revival beauty, and the free **Crawford Art Gallery** holds Irish art. **Cork City Gaol** looks like a castle and tells prisoners' stories. **Elizabeth Fort** offers views over the city, and **University College Cork** has lovely quads.

For evenings, **Oliver Plunkett Street** and the lanes around it are full of pubs. Sin É has excellent traditional sessions, and the Franciscan Well Brewery has a beer garden. Try Murphy's or Beamish, the local stouts.

Cobh and Spike Island

**Cobh**, a short train ride away, is a steep, colourful harbour town under a huge cathedral. The **Cobh Heritage Centre** tells the stories of emigrants and of the Titanic, which made its last stop here in 1912, and the Lusitania, which sank nearby. Ferries cross to **Spike Island**, a fortress and prison with excellent tours.

Blarney and Fota

**Blarney Castle** is famous for its stone, which you kiss while leaning backwards for the gift of the gab. The gardens, including a poison garden, are worth as much time as the castle. **Fota Wildlife Park**, on the Cobh train line, is a great family day out.

Kinsale and West Cork

**Kinsale** is a pretty harbour town known for restaurants and **Charles Fort**, a star shaped fort. Further west, **West Cork** is a region of fishing villages, islands and headlands, including Clonakilty, Baltimore and **Mizen Head**, Ireland's most south westerly point. Buses reach the main towns, but services are thin, so plan carefully or join a tour.

Food and drink

Cork's specialities include drisheen, tripe, spiced beef and the city's own Barry's and Murphy's traditions. Café Paradiso is a famous vegetarian restaurant, and Market Lane is a reliable choice for local food. Ballymaloe in East Cork is a celebrated cookery school and country house.

Where to stay

Stay in the city centre between the two river channels to walk everywhere. Cobh and Kinsale make charming alternatives for a slower stay.

Getting there

Trains run from Dublin Heuston to Cork Kent station in about two and a half hours, and coaches link Cork with Killarney, Galway and Dublin.

Tips for a smooth visit

Cork city is hilly on the north side, so wear comfortable shoes for Shandon. The English Market is closed on Sundays and some bank holidays, so plan your visit for a weekday or Saturday. Spike Island ferries can sell out in summer, so book ahead. For West Cork, start early and allow plenty of time, as roads are narrow and winding and distances feel longer than they look.