Galway and Connemara: music, islands and the wild west

Why go

Galway feels like a party that never quite ends. Buskers play on Shop Street, pubs spill music onto the lanes and the city fills with festivals all summer. It is also the best base for the far west: in an hour you are among the lakes and peaks of Connemara, and ferries cross to the Aran Islands where life still follows the weather and the sea.

Galway city

The **Latin Quarter**, centred on Shop Street, Quay Street and High Street, is the heart of the city, all colourful shopfronts and medieval lanes. Walk down to the **Spanish Arch** and the free **Galway City Museum**, then along the river to the **Claddagh**, the old fishing village that gave its name to the famous ring. Thomas Dillon's on Quay Street has a small museum on the ring's history. The **Galway Market** beside St Nicholas' Church runs at weekends with crafts and hot food. Stroll the **Salthill Promenade** and kick the wall at the end, as locals do.

For music, Tigh Neachtain, Taaffes and The Crane Bar are the classic spots. Sessions are free to listen to; just buy a drink and give the musicians space.

Connemara

**Kylemore Abbey**, a neo Gothic castle on a lake, has a lovely Victorian walled garden. **Connemara National Park** at Letterfrack has marked trails, including the climb up Diamond Hill with views to the islands. **Clifden** is the main town, with the **Sky Road** loop above the coast. The drive through the **Inagh Valley** and along **Killary Harbour**, Ireland's fjord, is unforgettable on a clear day. Roads are narrow and buses limited, so many visitors join a day tour from Galway.

The Aran Islands

Ferries leave from Rossaveal, west of Galway, and in season from Doolin in Clare. **Inis Mór**, the largest island, has **Dún Aonghasa**, a prehistoric fort on the edge of a sheer cliff. Rent a bike or take a minibus tour from the pier. **Inis Meáin** is the quietest and **Inis Oírr** the smallest. Crossings depend on weather, so leave flexibility.

Food and drink

Galway is known for oysters, seafood chowder, smoked salmon and fish and chips at McDonagh's. Ard Bia at Nimmos is lovely for a special meal, and there are good cafés and bakeries in the centre. In Connemara, look for Connemara lamb and fresh mussels.

Festivals

The **Galway International Arts Festival** in July and the **Galway Races** at the end of July and early August are the biggest events, and the city books out. September brings the oyster festival. Plan and book early around these dates.

Where to stay

Stay in or near the Latin Quarter or Eyre Square to walk everywhere. Salthill is quieter and by the sea. In Connemara, Clifden and Letterfrack have guesthouses and country hotels.

Getting there

Trains run from Dublin Heuston to Galway in around two and a half hours, and coaches link Galway with Dublin Airport and Shannon Airport.

Tips for a smooth visit

Galway's weather changes quickly, so carry a waterproof jacket even in summer. Book Aran Island ferries online the day before and check sailings on the morning of travel. Connemara has few cash machines and limited phone signal in places, so carry a card and download offline maps. If you love music, ask in your guesthouse which pub has the best session that night, as it changes through the week. Galway is lively late at night at weekends, especially around Eyre Square, so choose a quieter street if you want sleep.