Tabriz: Iran's great bazaar city of the north west

Why visit Tabriz

Tabriz is off the classic southern route, so it sees fewer foreign visitors, but it rewards the trip. It is a natural first or last stop for travellers coming overland from Turkey, Armenia or Azerbaijan, and many families in the diaspora have roots here. Its people speak Azerbaijani Turkish among themselves, and the food, music and pace feel distinct from central Iran.

The Historic Bazaar Complex

The Tabriz bazaar became a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2010 and is one of the largest covered markets in the world. Its brick vaults and domed halls, called timches, stretch for kilometres, with sections for carpets, gold, spices, shoes and dried fruit. The Muzaffariyeh timche is the carpet hall, where traders sit among piles of rugs and will happily explain knot counts and designs. The Amir timche is the gold market. Go on a weekday morning, and expect the bazaar to be closed on Fridays.

The Blue Mosque

The Blue Mosque, built in 1465, was badly damaged by an earthquake in 1780 and has been partly restored. What remains of its tile mosaic, in deep blues and turquoise, is some of the finest in Iran, and the quiet brick interior has a haunting beauty.

Other sights in the city

The Arg of Tabriz is the massive brick wall of an unfinished fourteenth century mosque. The Azerbaijan Museum has finds from the region's ancient sites. The Constitution House recalls the city's leading role in the constitutional revolution of 1905 to 1911. El Goli park, with a pavilion in the middle of a large pool, is where families stroll in the evening.

Kandovan and day trips

Kandovan, about an hour south, is a village whose homes are carved into cone shaped volcanic rocks, similar to Cappadocia but still lived in. Families still keep animals and sell honey there. Further afield, the Armenian monastery of Saint Thaddeus (Qareh Kelisa) and the Saint Stepanos Monastery near Jolfa are part of a UNESCO listing, and Lake Urmia, once one of the largest salt lakes in the world, has shrunk dramatically.

Food

Tabriz is known for kufteh tabrizi, giant meatballs stuffed with egg, nuts and dried fruit, and for its rich ash soups. Sweets are serious here too: try ghorabieh almond biscuits and the city's nougats. Breakfast with fresh lavash, cheese, herbs, honey and clotted cream is a local pleasure.

Practical tips

Winters are cold and snowy, while summers are warm and pleasant, making Tabriz a good counterpoint to the desert cities. The north west border areas with Iraq and Turkey can carry specific warnings in government advice, so check before travelling beyond the city. Cash rules are the same as anywhere in Iran: bring enough for your stay.

Getting there and around

Tabriz has an airport with domestic flights from Tehran and other cities, and some international routes, mostly to Turkey and the region. Overnight trains run from Tehran, and buses connect it to every major city as well as to the border crossings with Turkey at Bazargan and with Armenia at Nordooz. In the city, taxis are plentiful, a metro line crosses the centre and the bazaar area is best on foot.

Etiquette and language

Most people in Tabriz speak Azerbaijani Turkish at home and Persian with outsiders. A greeting of salam works everywhere, and locals appreciate any effort with either language. Dress and behaviour rules are the same as in the rest of Iran, and the city has a slightly more conservative reputation than Tehran.