South Iceland

The South Coast: waterfalls, black sand and glaciers

Iceland's South Coast runs east from Reykjavík along the Ring Road, past waterfalls falling from old sea cliffs, glacier tongues, black sand beaches and, at its far end, a lagoon full of icebergs. Vík is a day trip from the capital, but the best of the coast deserves two to four nights.

Skógafoss July 2014
Photo: Martin Falbisoner, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

At a glance

Best for
Waterfalls, beaches, glaciers and ice caves
Distance
Reykjavík to Vík about 180 km, Jökulsárlón about 370 km
Time needed
Two to four days
Best season
All year, ice caves in winter
Getting around
Self drive, multi day tours or summer buses
Good base for
Hella, Hvolsvöllur, Vík and Kirkjubæjarklaustur

Why go

No stretch of Iceland packs in more famous sights. In a few hours you pass two of the country's most loved waterfalls, walk onto a glacier, stand on a black beach under basalt columns and look out to sea stacks wrapped in legend. Push further east and the landscape opens into vast outwash plains, the green hills of Skaftafell and the floating ice of Jökulsárlón.

Waterfalls

**Seljalandsfoss** is the waterfall you can walk behind on a slippery path, so bring a waterproof jacket. A short walk away, **Gljúfrabúi** hides inside a narrow gorge. **Skógafoss** is a wide curtain of water with stairs to a viewpoint at the top, where the **Fimmvörðuháls** trail begins. Further east, **Svartifoss** in Skaftafell falls over black basalt columns.

Glaciers and ice

At **Sólheimajökull**, a glacier tongue near the road, licensed guides lead glacier walks with crampons. Never walk onto ice without a guide. In **Skaftafell**, part of Vatnajökull National Park, trails lead to glacier viewpoints and waterfalls. **Jökulsárlón** glacier lagoon is filled with icebergs, often with seals, and across the road **Diamond Beach** is scattered with ice on black sand. Ice cave tours in natural caves under Vatnajökull run roughly from November to March, conditions permitting.

Vík and the black beaches

**Reynisfjara**, just west of Vík, has basalt columns and the Reynisdrangar sea stacks. It is also genuinely dangerous: sneaker waves have swept people away. Stay well back from the water, follow the warning lights and never turn your back on the sea. **Dyrhólaey** offers arches, cliffs and puffins in summer. **Vík** itself is a small village with a hilltop church, cafés and a good pool.

Where to stay

Bases include **Hella** and **Hvolsvöllur** in the west, **Vík** in the middle, and **Kirkjubæjarklaustur** or farm hotels near **Skaftafell** and **Höfn** further east. Rooms are limited, so book early in summer and for winter aurora season.

Getting there and around

Many tours run from Reykjavík to Vík and back in a day, and two or three day tours reach Jökulsárlón. Self drivers follow Route 1, which is paved but exposed to strong winds, sandstorms and snow. Check road.is, vedur.is and SafeTravel.is every morning. Summer Strætó buses run along the coast, less often in winter.

Practical tips

Hold doors with both hands in high winds, keep fuel above half in the east, and never stop on the road for photos. Time Seljalandsfoss for early morning or evening to avoid crowds. See our places to visit list for stays and food, and use the free trip planner to set a realistic pace.

A sample three day route

On day one, drive from Reykjavík to Seljalandsfoss and Gljúfrabúi, then Skógafoss, and sleep near Vík after an evening walk on the beach at a safe distance from the waves. On day two, visit Dyrhólaey early, join a glacier walk at Sólheimajökull or continue east past the moss covered lava of Eldhraun and the canyon of Fjaðrárgljúfur to a night near Skaftafell. On day three, hike to Svartifoss in the morning, then spend the afternoon at Jökulsárlón and Diamond Beach before heading back west or continuing to Höfn for langoustine. In winter, allow extra time, as storms can close the road for hours.

Questions about the South Coast

Can I see the South Coast in a day from Reykjavík?

Yes, as far as Vík and Reynisfjara. Jökulsárlón is about five hours each way, so it is far better with at least one night.

Is Reynisfjara beach dangerous?

Yes. Sneaker waves arrive without warning and have caused deaths. Follow the warning signs, stay far back from the waterline and keep children close.

When can I visit an ice cave?

Natural ice caves are usually visited with guides from about November to March. Summer ice cave tours use a man made tunnel or a cave on Katla, depending on operator.

Do I need a guide for glacier walks?

Yes. Glaciers have hidden crevasses and changing ice. Go only with a licensed glacier guide, who provides crampons and helmets.

Facts checked . Fees, schedules and entry rules change, so always confirm the latest with the official source.

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