Naxos: a first-timer's guide to the greenest Cyclades island

Why go

Naxos combines the white cubes and blue sea of the Cyclades with something many islands lack: a fertile interior of valleys, olive groves and mountain villages. Because it feeds itself, the food is excellent and fresh. The beaches on the west coast are long, sandy and shallow, which makes them ideal for children and less confident swimmers.

Naxos Town (Chora)

The ferry docks right by the **Portara**, a huge marble doorway of an unfinished temple of Apollo on the islet of Palatia, joined to town by a causeway. It is the island's symbol and the classic place for sunset. Behind the harbour, lanes climb up through the **Kastro**, the Venetian quarter, with old mansions, the Catholic cathedral and a small archaeological museum. The **Bourgos** neighbourhood below is full of tavernas and small shops.

Beaches

Just south of town, **Agios Georgios** is a sheltered sandy bay perfect for families. Further down the coast, **Agios Prokopios**, **Agia Anna**, **Plaka**, **Mikri Vigla** and **Aliko** follow one after another, with clear water and dunes. Mikri Vigla is a kitesurfing hub when the summer meltemi wind blows. Buses run down this coast in summer.

Mountain villages

**Halki** was once the island's capital and has a kitron distillery, where the local citrus liqueur has been made for generations. **Filoti** sits on the slopes of **Mount Zas**, the highest peak in the Cyclades, a rewarding hike of a few hours. **Apeiranthos** is a marble paved village with small museums and a distinct dialect. The **Temple of Demeter** near Sangri and the giant unfinished **kouros statues** lying in ancient quarries at Melanes and Apollonas are memorable stops.

Food

Try graviera and arseniko cheeses, Naxos potatoes, slow cooked local meat, and kitron liqueur. Village tavernas in the mountains are often family run and use their own produce.

Where to stay

Naxos Town is the most convenient base, with ferries, buses and restaurants. Agios Georgios is walkable from town and good for families. Agios Prokopios and Plaka suit beach holidays. A night or two in a mountain village adds a quieter side.

A sample three days

Spend the first day in Naxos Town: climb through the Kastro in the morning, swim at Agios Georgios and watch sunset at the Portara. On the second day, follow the beaches south to Plaka or Mikri Vigla and stay for a fish dinner by the sand. On the third day, head into the mountains by bus or tour to Halki for kitron tasting, Filoti for a walk on the slopes of Mount Zas, and marble paved Apeiranthos, stopping at a village taverna for slow cooked lamb and local cheese. With an extra day, take a boat to Koufonisia in the Small Cyclades.

Getting around

KTEL buses link town with the beaches and main villages, though services to the far north and east are less frequent. Organised day tours reach the mountain villages and kouros sites. Ferries link Naxos with Piraeus, Rafina, Paros, Mykonos, Santorini, Ios and the Small Cyclades, making it an easy hub for island hopping.

Tips

Naxos is calmer than Mykonos or Santorini but still busy in August, when Greek families holiday here. Book ferries and stays ahead in high season. The meltemi wind can make some beaches choppy; the island's south west coast is usually more sheltered.