Athens: a first-timer's guide to Greece's capital

Why go

Few cities let you walk from a two and a half thousand year old temple to a modern rooftop bar in ten minutes. Athens is the home of the Parthenon, the birthplace of democracy and theatre, and today a city of nearly four million people who eat late, talk loudly and spend long evenings outdoors. It is also the main gateway to the islands, with ferries from Piraeus and Rafina.

Top things to do

Start with the **Acropolis**, ideally right at opening time or in the last hours before closing, when it is cooler and calmer. Entry uses timed slots, so book your ticket online in advance through the official site. Afterwards, walk down to the **Acropolis Museum**, whose glass floors show excavations beneath your feet and whose top gallery displays the Parthenon sculptures in sight of the temple itself.

The **Ancient Agora**, with the well preserved Temple of Hephaestus, the **Roman Agora** and **Hadrian's Library** are all close together below the hill. A combined ticket covers several sites and is worth it if you plan to visit three or more. The **National Archaeological Museum** holds the gold Mask of Agamemnon and the bronze Artemision god, and is one of the great museums of the ancient world.

For views, climb **Philopappos Hill** or the **Areopagus** rock at sunset, or take the funicular up **Lycabettus Hill**, the highest point in central Athens. Watch the changing of the Evzones guard outside **Parliament** on Syntagma Square, then wander the shaded paths of the **National Garden**.

Neighbourhoods

**Plaka** is the old quarter under the Acropolis, all bougainvillea, steps and souvenir shops. Tucked above it, **Anafiotika** is a tiny village of white houses built by island workers. **Monastiraki** has the flea market and a famous square with Acropolis views. **Psyrri** and **Koukaki** are where Athenians eat and drink, **Kolonaki** is smart and stylish, and **Exarchia** is the student and alternative quarter. The **Varvakios Central Market** on Athinas Street is a loud, wonderful meat, fish and spice market.

Food

Eat souvlaki and gyros from a busy grill, try loukoumades (honey doughnuts), share meze plates of fava, grilled octopus and horta (wild greens), and order koulouri sesame rings from street carts for breakfast. Dinner starts late, often after nine.

Day trips

**Cape Sounion** and the Temple of Poseidon make a classic sunset trip along the coast. **Delphi**, the ancient oracle on Mount Parnassus, is a long but memorable day by bus or tour. The islands of **Aegina** and **Hydra** are easy by fast ferry from Piraeus, and **Nafplio** with the ancient sites of **Mycenae** and **Epidaurus** works well as a night away.

Where to stay

Plaka, Koukaki and Makrygianni put you in walking distance of the Acropolis. Monastiraki and Psyrri suit night owls, Syntagma is central and practical for the airport metro, and Kolonaki is quieter and upmarket. Stays with a roof terrace view of the Acropolis are worth looking for.

Getting around

The metro links the airport, Syntagma, Monastiraki, the Acropolis station and Piraeus. Central Athens is very walkable, though pavements are uneven and summer afternoons are hot. Licensed taxis are yellow; use the meter or a taxi app.

Safety and practical tips

Athens is generally safe, but pickpockets work the metro, especially line 1 to Piraeus, and crowded spots like Monastiraki. Keep bags zipped and in front of you. Some streets around Omonia are rough after dark. In July and August, heatwaves can close the Acropolis in the afternoon, so plan sightseeing for mornings.