Provence: lavender, markets and Roman towns

Why go

Provence combines history and the good life. The Romans left an aqueduct, arenas and theatres; the popes left a vast Gothic palace; Van Gogh and Cézanne left their visions of its light. And every town has a weekly market where you can taste your way through the region.

Avignon

Walled **Avignon** is the easiest base, with a TGV station linking it to Paris in under three hours. The **Palais des Papes** was home to the popes in the fourteenth century and is one of the largest Gothic buildings in Europe. The half ruined **Pont d'Avignon**, of the children's song, reaches into the Rhône, and the **Rocher des Doms** garden above it gives great views. **Les Halles** covered market is perfect for picnic shopping. Each July the **Festival d'Avignon** fills the town with theatre, official and fringe, so book rooms early if you visit then.

The Luberon

The Luberon hills east of Avignon hold the classic perched villages. **Gordes** spills down its hill in golden stone; nearby **Sénanque Abbey** is framed by lavender in early summer. **Roussillon** glows red and orange from the ochre in its cliffs, with a short walking trail through them. **Lourmarin**, **Bonnieux** and **Ménerbes** are lovely for a lunch stop. **L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue** is a riverside town known for antiques and a big Sunday market.

Arles, Nîmes and the Pont du Gard

**Arles** has a Roman arena and theatre, the streets Van Gogh painted, and the striking **LUMA** arts tower. It is the gateway to the **Camargue** wetlands of white horses, black bulls and flamingos. **Nîmes**, just over the regional line, has a superbly preserved Roman temple, the Maison Carrée, and another arena. Between them, the **Pont du Gard** is a three tiered Roman aqueduct where you can swim in the river below in summer.

Aix-en-Provence and Marseille

**Aix-en-Provence** is an elegant university town of fountains, the Cours Mirabeau and Cézanne's studio. **Marseille**, France's second city, is gritty and exciting, with the Vieux Port, the **MuCEM** museum, the hilltop **Notre-Dame de la Garde** and the **Calanques National Park** of white cliffs and turquoise coves. Try bouillabaisse, the fish stew of the port.

Lavender season

Lavender usually blooms from late June to mid July, depending on altitude and weather. The **Valensole plateau** has the biggest fields, while Sénanque and the Luberon offer smaller, prettier settings. Stay on paths and respect farmers' fields.

Getting around

Trains and buses connect Avignon, Arles, Aix and Marseille. The small villages have limited buses, so many visitors join day tours from Avignon. Allow plenty of time: summer traffic on village roads is slow and parking fills early.

Food

Shop markets for tapenade, olives, goat cheese, melons from Cavaillon and nougat. Order ratatouille, daube (beef stew), aïoli with vegetables and cod, and a chilled rosé. Many village restaurants serve lunch only from about noon to two, so plan your day around it.

When to go

Late May to early July brings flowers, lavender and long evenings. July and August are hot, busy and expensive. September and October are warm, golden and quieter, with grape harvests. In winter many village hotels close.