Lyon: France's food capital

Why go

Lyon is a city for eating, walking and slowing down. Its old town is one of the largest Renaissance quarters in Europe and is UNESCO listed, its museums are excellent, and its restaurants range from tiny bouchons to the legacy of Paul Bocuse. In early December, the **Fête des Lumières** turns the whole city into a stage for light shows.

Neighbourhoods to know

**Vieux Lyon**, on the west bank of the Saône, is a medieval and Renaissance quarter of cobbled lanes and pastel facades. Its secret **traboules** are covered passageways cutting through buildings and courtyards from one street to the next; some are open to visitors during the day. Above it rises **Fourvière** hill, reached by funicular, with a glittering basilica and Roman theatres. The **Presqu'île** peninsula between the rivers holds Place Bellecour, the shopping streets and the elegant **Place des Terreaux**. **Croix-Rousse**, the old silk workers' hill, has stairways, murals and a village atmosphere. Across the Rhône, **Confluence** is the modern waterfront district.

What to see and do

Ride the funicular to **Notre-Dame de Fourvière** for the view, then walk down through the **Roman theatres**, which host the Nuits de Fourvière festival in summer. Explore the traboules of Vieux Lyon and Croix-Rousse. The **Musée des Beaux-Arts** in a former abbey has a superb collection and a peaceful cloister garden. The **Musée des Confluences** covers science and human history in a striking modern building. Look for the city's painted murals, such as the **Fresque des Lyonnais**. The huge **Parc de la Tête d'Or** has a lake, rose gardens and a free zoo, great for families.

Food and drink

The **bouchon** is Lyon's signature restaurant: checked tablecloths, set menus and rich dishes like **quenelles** in crayfish sauce, **saucisson brioché**, **salade lyonnaise** with a poached egg, and **tablier de sapeur**. Classics include Daniel et Denise and Café Comptoir Abel. **Les Halles Paul Bocuse** is a covered market of cheese, charcuterie and oysters, and the riverside **Marché Saint-Antoine** is lively every morning except Monday. Try **praline tart** or **praline brioche**, bright pink and sweet. Wine comes from the Beaujolais and Côtes du Rhône on the doorstep.

Nightlife

The **péniches** (barges) moored along the Rhône are bars and clubs in the evening. The Presqu'île and Croix-Rousse have plenty of wine bars, and Vieux Lyon has old pubs in vaulted cellars.

Day trips

The vineyards and golden stone villages of **Beaujolais** are an hour north. **Pérouges** is a beautifully preserved medieval village. **Annecy**, with its lake and canals, is about two hours away and makes a beautiful day out. Lyon is also a good stepping stone between Paris and Provence or the Alps.

Getting around

Lyon's metro, trams and two funiculars are simple and efficient, and the centre is walkable. The **Rhônexpress** tram links the airport to Part-Dieu station. Lyon has two main stations, Part-Dieu and Perrache, so check which one your train uses.

Where to stay

Stay on the **Presqu'île** for central convenience, in **Vieux Lyon** for atmosphere, or in **Croix-Rousse** for a local feel. Rooms are cheaper than in Paris, except during the Fête des Lumières when they sell out months ahead.