The Dahlak islands: a first-timer's guide to Eritrea's Red Sea archipelago

Why visit the Dahlak islands

While Egypt and Sudan built a dive industry, Eritrea's islands stayed almost empty for decades. The result is a seascape of pale beaches, mangroves, coral gardens and shallow lagoons with hardly another boat in sight. It is not a resort destination: think simple camping, boat picnics and long days on the water.

The main islands

• **Dahlak Kebir**: the largest island, with fishing villages, ancient cisterns and a remarkable field of Islamic tombstones with Arabic inscriptions, some around a thousand years old, from the time when Dahlak was a trading sultanate.
• **Green Island**: closest to Massawa and the easiest day trip, with a beach and snorkelling.
• **Dissei (Desset)**: a hilly island south of the main group, known for its sandy beaches and clear water, and often visited by overnight boat trips.
• **Madote and the smaller islets**: tiny, low islands loved by seabirds, reached on longer trips.

What to do

Snorkelling and diving are the main draws, with healthy reefs, reef sharks, rays and large shoals of fish. Dolphins often ride the bow, and turtles nest on some beaches. Birdwatchers can see ospreys, crab plovers and herons. Fishing trips can also be arranged. Dive equipment and qualified guides are scarce, so experienced divers should bring their own gear and confirm what an operator can supply well in advance.

Getting there and permits

All trips start in Massawa. You need a specific permit to visit the islands, on top of your general travel permit, and the easiest route is to book through a licensed Eritrean tour operator or a hotel in Massawa that organises boats. Allow extra days in case of delays or rough seas. Check your government's travel advice about maritime areas before you book.

What to bring

There are almost no facilities. Take plenty of drinking water, food if your trip does not include it, strong sunscreen, a hat, a long sleeved top for the sun, reef shoes and a basic first aid kit. Mobile signal disappears quickly once you leave Massawa.

When to go

The cooler months from November to March bring calmer heat and good visibility. Summer is extremely hot, with harsh sun on open boats, and winds can make crossings uncomfortable at any time, so stay flexible.

Responsible visiting

The reefs and islands are fragile and largely unprotected by modern tourism infrastructure, so travel lightly. Use reef safe sunscreen, never touch or stand on coral, take all your rubbish back to Massawa, and keep a respectful distance from nesting turtles and seabird colonies. Fishing villages are small and traditional, so dress modestly when landing and ask before taking photographs of people.

How long to stay

A single day is enough for a taste of Green Island and the nearer reefs. Two or three nights on an organised boat trip lets you reach Dahlak Kebir, Dissei and the outer islands, see dolphins and enjoy evenings on empty beaches under a sky full of stars. Build in a spare day in Massawa in case weather or paperwork delays your departure.