Quito: a first-timer's guide to the capital

Neighbourhoods to know

Quito is long and thin, so where you stay shapes your trip.

• **Centro Histórico** is the Old Town, with Plaza Grande, the cathedral, the Presidential Palace and streets of white walled houses with wooden balconies. It is atmospheric by day and on busy weekend evenings, but quieter streets empty out after dark.
• **La Ronda** is a restored colonial lane of cafés, craft shops and music on Friday and Saturday nights.
• **San Marcos** is a calmer corner of the Old Town with small galleries and old houses.
• **La Floresta** is a creative, residential area of cafés, independent cinemas and murals, popular with longer stay visitors.
• **La Mariscal** is the old backpacker district, with bars and hostels around Plaza Foch. It is lively but has more petty crime, so many visitors now prefer La Floresta or the Old Town.
• **González Suárez and La Carolina** are modern districts with business hotels, parks and malls.

What to see

Start at **Plaza Grande** and walk to **La Compañía de Jesús**, a church covered inside with gold leaf, and the **Basílica del Voto Nacional**, where you can climb into the towers among gargoyles shaped like Ecuadorian animals. The **San Francisco** monastery and plaza are among the oldest in the Americas. The **Casa del Alabado** museum shows pre Columbian art beautifully, and the **Capilla del Hombre** honours the painter Oswaldo Guayasamín.

For views, ride the **TelefériQo** cable car up the slopes of Pichincha, or take a taxi to the **Panecillo** hill and its winged Virgin statue. Go by taxi rather than walking up the Panecillo stairs.

Day trips

The **Mitad del Mundo** monument and the more hands on **Intiñan Museum** sit near the equator line north of the city. **Mindo**, about two hours away, is a cloud forest town of hummingbirds, waterfalls, chocolate tours and zip lines. **Otavalo's** market is best on Saturdays, and **Cotopaxi National Park** offers high altitude walks to the glacier's edge on clear days.

Food and drink

Try **locro de papa**, a creamy potato soup with cheese and avocado, **hornado** roast pork with llapingachos potato patties, and **empanadas de viento** dusted with sugar. The **Mercado Central** is famous for its corvina fish and soups, and Quito's cafés serve some of the best Ecuadorian coffee and chocolate. In the Old Town, try the colada morada and guaguas de pan around the Day of the Dead in early November.

Getting around

The **Quito Metro** runs north to south along the city and is the fastest way to cover long distances. Use registered yellow taxis with a meter or ride apps, especially at night. The airport is in Tababela, about an hour from the centre, so allow plenty of time for departures.

Staying safe

Pickpocketing and bag snatching are the main risks, especially on crowded buses, around the Old Town and in La Mariscal at night. Keep phones out of sight on the street, avoid walking alone after dark in quiet areas and do not hike up Pichincha or the Panecillo stairs without a guide. Check your government's advice for any state of emergency or curfew before you travel.