The Galápagos Islands: how to plan your visit

Cruise or island hopping

The first big decision is how to see the islands.

• **A cruise** on a licensed boat lets you reach remote islands such as Genovesa, Fernandina and Española, with a naturalist guide and moves between islands done mostly at night. It is the best choice for wildlife lovers, but it is usually the most expensive option.
• **Island hopping** means staying in hotels on the inhabited islands and taking day trips by boat. It is more flexible and usually cheaper, though some famous visitor sites can only be reached by cruise.

Many people combine the two: a few nights on Santa Cruz and a short cruise.

The inhabited islands

**Santa Cruz** is the hub. Its town, Puerto Ayora, has the Charles Darwin Research Station, Tortuga Bay beach, Las Grietas swimming gorge and the giant tortoise reserves of the highlands, such as El Chato.

**San Cristóbal** has the capital, Puerto Baquerizo Moreno, where sea lions take over the waterfront. Kicker Rock is a famous snorkel and dive site, and the interpretation centre explains the islands' history.

**Isabela** is the largest island and the most laid back, with flamingo lagoons, the Sierra Negra volcano hike and the lava tunnels of Los Túneles, where you can snorkel with turtles and sometimes penguins.

**Floreana** is small and quiet, with a fascinating settler history and very limited lodging.

When to go

The islands are a year round destination. From December to May the sea is warmer and calmer and the land is greener, with more rain showers. From June to November the Humboldt current brings cooler water, mist and rougher seas, but also more plankton, which draws whales, sharks and feeding seabirds. Holidays fill up fast, so book early for Christmas, Easter and July and August.

Before you fly

Every visitor needs a **Transit Control Card**, bought at the Galápagos counter at Quito or Guayaquil airport before check in, and must pay the **national park entrance fee** on arrival. Luggage is inspected to keep out seeds, fruit and other foreign species. The rules and the park fee have changed in recent years, so check the official Galápagos National Park and government sites before you go, and allow extra time at the airport.

Rules in the park

Stay at least two metres from wildlife, never touch or feed animals, stay on marked trails and visit most sites only with a licensed naturalist guide. Drones are restricted, and you must not take sand, shells or rocks home.

Money and practical tips

All prices are in US dollars, and costs are higher than on the mainland. Carry cash for small purchases, as card machines can be unreliable on Isabela and Floreana. Inter island speedboats can be rough, so bring motion sickness tablets. A good mask and reef safe sunscreen make snorkelling much more enjoyable.

What to pack

Bring a light rain jacket, a warm layer for boat rides, quick drying clothes, sandals with grip for wet landings, a hat and reef safe sunscreen. Your own mask and snorkel are more comfortable than rental ones.