Kongo Central: waterfalls, caves and the road to the sea

Why go

This was the heart of the old Kingdom of Kongo, one of the great states of Central Africa when Portuguese navigators arrived in the fifteenth century. Today it is a land of hills, rivers and small towns, and a favourite weekend escape for people from Kinshasa. The road west, known as National Road 1, is the country's busiest highway, so most places are reachable in a day or less from the capital.

Kisantu and Mbanza-Ngungu

About three hours from Kinshasa, the Jardin Botanique de Kisantu was founded by Jesuit missionaries in 1900. Its tall trees, orchid house and riverside paths make it one of the most peaceful places in the country. Further on, the hill town of Mbanza-Ngungu has a cooler climate and limestone caves that local guides lead visitors through.

Zongo Falls

The Chutes de Zongo on the Inkisi river are the province's most famous sight, a broad curtain of water dropping into a green gorge. They are popular for weekend picnics. The track off the main road is rough, so check conditions before you go, especially in the rainy season.

Matadi

Matadi, whose name means stones in Kikongo, is built on steep rocky slopes above the river. It is the country's main seaport and the end of the historic railway from Kinshasa. The Pont Maréchal suspension bridge spans the river just upstream. Nearby, at the Yellala rapids, rock inscriptions left by the navigator Diogo Cão in the 1480s record how far the Portuguese could sail. The vast Inga dams lie upstream.

Boma and Muanda

Boma was the first capital of the colonial Congo and still has old buildings and a giant baobab where Stanley is said to have camped. Muanda is the country's tiny piece of Atlantic coast, with long beaches, fresh seafood and the Parc Marin des Mangroves, which protects mangrove forest, manatees and nesting sea turtles. At Banana, the river mouth, the brown water of the Congo pushes far out to sea.

Getting around

Most travellers go by road with a driver, as public minibuses are crowded and accidents are common on the highway. Domestic flights sometimes serve Muanda. Avoid driving after dark, carry your passport for police checkpoints and allow time for heavy trucks on the road.

A sample route

On day one, drive from Kinshasa to Kisantu, visit the botanical garden and continue to Mbanza-Ngungu for the night. On day two, visit the caves in the morning and continue to Matadi, stopping at the Inga viewpoint if conditions allow. On day three, explore Matadi, the Pont Maréchal and the Diogo Cão inscriptions near Yellala, then drive on to Boma. On day four, reach Muanda for the beaches and a boat trip into the mangroves of the marine park. Allow at least a day to drive back, or check whether a flight from Muanda to Kinshasa is running. The Zongo Falls can be added as a separate trip from Kinshasa or on the way out, depending on road conditions.

Food and stays along the way

Grilled fish, chikwangue and fumbwa leaves are the classic meals of the province, and seafood is excellent at Muanda. Hotels are simple and mostly family run, so bring a torch, toiletries and water purification tablets.