Grand-Bassam: the old colonial capital by the sea

A short history

Grand-Bassam grew in the nineteenth century as a trading post, then became the capital of the new French colony in 1893. A yellow fever epidemic in 1899 drove the administration to Bingerville, and later Abidjan, and the old town slowly emptied. What remains is a rare example of a colonial town planned around trade, with customs houses, a post office, courts, churches and merchant homes. It was listed by UNESCO in 2012. The town is also remembered for the march of women in 1949, when Ivorian women walked to the prison here to demand the release of independence activists, a story you can learn about in town.

What to see

Walk the Quartier France slowly. Highlights include the old governor’s palace, which now holds the Musée National du Costume with traditional dress, jewellery and models of village life; the Maison Varlet and other crumbling mansions with deep verandas; the old post office and customs buildings; and the Cathédrale Sacré-Cœur. Visit the Centre Céramique, where local potters work and sell their pieces. Many buildings are fragile or under restoration, so admire them from the street and ask before photographing people.

A local guide adds real depth: they know which houses belonged to which trading firms, and can point out the scars of the past alongside the town’s revival.

The beach

The Atlantic side of town has a long beach lined with hotels and maquis serving grilled fish, attiéké and cold drinks. It is lovely for long lunches, sunsets and walks, but the surf is strong and rip currents are dangerous. Paddle only, and follow any flags or local advice. The Comoé River meets the ocean at the eastern end, a quiet spot for fishing boats and photographs.

The Abissa festival

Each year, usually in late October or early November, the N’zima people of Grand-Bassam hold the Fête de l’Abissa, a week of drumming, dance and public forgiveness that marks the new year. People in traditional dress and in daring costumes dance in the sacred square, and anyone may speak openly about the past year without fear. Visitors are welcome to watch respectfully. Dates are set by the community, so confirm them before you plan around them.

Crafts and markets

Along the main road into town, a long line of stalls sells masks, carvings, paintings, beads and textiles. Prices start high, so bargain with a smile, and buy from the potters and weavers directly when you can. The everyday market in the Impérial area is good for fruit and a sense of local life.

Getting there and staying over

The town is about forty minutes from Abidjan airport and an hour or so from the Plateau, traffic allowing, by taxi or shared minibus. Many people visit as a day trip, but staying a night lets you see the old town in soft evening light and enjoy the beach at sunset. Weekend stays fill up with Abidjan families, so book ahead for Saturdays and holidays.

Safety note

Grand-Bassam suffered a terrorist attack on its beach hotels in March 2016. Security has been strengthened since and the town is busy and welcoming again, but read your government’s current travel advice before you go, as you would anywhere in the region.