Assinie: lagoon and ocean beaches on one sandbar

The lay of the land

Assinie is really two places. The old village of Assinie sits at the eastern end, where the lagoon meets the sea near the Ghana border. Assinie-Mafia stretches along the sandbar to the west and is where most hotels, lodges and beach clubs are. Many properties face the lagoon, with their own jetties, while the ocean beach is a short walk across the sand. Further west, Assouindé is quieter, with long empty beaches.

Why people love it

The magic of Assinie is its two waters. The lagoon is warm, flat and shallow in many places, ideal for families, swimmers who are nervous of waves, paddleboards and kayaks. The ocean side is wild and beautiful but has powerful rip currents, so it is for walking, sunbathing and watching, not for swimming. Between the two, coconut palms, fishing pirogues and simple village life give it a slower pace than anywhere near Abidjan.

What to do

• **Boat trips** across the lagoon to sandbanks and small islands, often with lunch of grilled fish.
• **Water sports**, including jet skis, kayaks, paddleboards and wakeboarding, arranged by hotels or beach clubs.
• **Mangrove trips** by canoe with local boatmen, for birds and calm water.
• **Village walks** in old Assinie to see fishing life and the meeting of lagoon and sea.
• **Lagune Aby**, the huge lagoon behind Adiaké, for a longer day of island hopping.
• **Weekend parties** at the beach bars, when Abidjan arrives with music and good humour.

Where to stay

Accommodation ranges from simple guesthouses in the village to stylish lodges and resorts along Assinie-Mafia. Many hotels include boat transfers from the mainland jetty, since some are only reachable by water. Midweek is calm and better value; weekends and holidays are lively and book up early. Choose somewhere with lagoon access if you want to swim, and check whether meals are included, since options outside the hotels are limited at night.

Getting there

Assinie is roughly two hours east of Abidjan by road, passing Grand-Bassam and Bonoua, depending on traffic. Shared taxis and minibuses run to the area from Abidjan, but most visitors use a taxi or transport arranged through their hotel. Leave Abidjan early on Friday to avoid the worst traffic.

When to go

The driest and sunniest months are December to April, which is also high season, with the Christmas and New Year holidays and Easter the busiest of all. The long rains from about May to July bring grey skies and rough seas, though the lagoon can still be pleasant. Prices and crowds are lower outside holidays.

Staying safe

The main risk here is the sea. Never swim in the ocean beyond your knees, keep children on the lagoon side, and wear a life jacket on boats. Use sun protection and drink plenty of water. Keep valuables in your room when you are on the beach.

Food and evenings

Meals revolve around the catch of the day. Expect grilled fish and prawns with attiéké, alloco and spicy sauces, along with kedjenou and simple French dishes in the lodges. In the village, small maquis serve home cooking at plastic tables by the water, a lovely way to meet local families. Evenings are quiet midweek, with dinner under the stars, and livelier at weekends when beach bars play coupé-décalé and zouk until late. Bring insect repellent for sunset on the lagoon side.