Mohéli: turtles, whales and the quietest Comoros island

Why Mohéli is special

Mohéli has fewer people, fewer roads and more nature than its neighbours. The island and its waters are recognised as a UNESCO biosphere reserve, and the national park protects reefs, seagrass beds, mangroves and nesting beaches. Village life continues much as it has for generations, and visitors are still rare enough to be greeted with curiosity and warmth.

Turtles at Itsamia

The village of Itsamia, on the southeast coast, is one of the most important green turtle nesting sites in the western Indian Ocean. Local community guides take visitors onto the beach at night to watch females dig nests and lay eggs, and at certain times hatchlings scramble to the sea. Turtles nest all year, with numbers often higher in the warmer months. Follow your guide's instructions: no torches or flash photography near the turtles, keep your distance and stay quiet.

Whales and dolphins

From roughly July to October, humpback whales arrive from the southern ocean to breed and calve in the warm waters around the Comoros. Boat trips from Nioumachoua often see them, along with spinner dolphins. Choose operators who keep a respectful distance and do not chase the animals.

Nioumachoua and the islets

Nioumachoua is a fishing village on the south coast facing a string of small islets, such as Ouénéfou, with white sand beaches and good snorkelling. Boatmen take day trips out to the islets for picnics, swimming and coral. It is also a base for the park's marine activities, and you may see dugong feeding grounds marked on park maps, though dugongs themselves are rarely seen.

Fomboni and the north

Fomboni is the island's small capital and port, with a market, a few shops and the main administrative offices. It is useful for cash, supplies and transport, but most visitors move on quickly to the coast. Lake Boundouni, a crater lake in the hills, is a peaceful walk and a good place for birds.

Forest walks

The hills of Mohéli's interior are covered in forest, home to Livingstone's fruit bat, lemurs (mongoose lemurs, introduced long ago), and endemic birds. Walks with a local guide from villages such as Ouallah or Miringoni lead to viewpoints and waterfalls.

Getting there and around

Mohéli's airport, Bandar Es Eslam, is near Fomboni, with small domestic flights from Moroni and Anjouan. Boats also link the islands, but choose carefully and avoid overloaded or unregistered vessels. On the island, transport is limited: a few shared taxis run along the main coast road, and most guesthouses arrange transfers and drivers.

Where to stay

Mohéli has a few eco-lodges and simple community guesthouses, especially around Nioumachoua and Itsamia. Electricity can be intermittent and comfort is basic, so bring a torch, power bank and cash, and confirm your booking directly before you travel.