The Ounianga lakes: blue water in the heart of the Sahara

What the lakes are

The lakes lie in two main groups in north eastern Chad, about a day's drive north of the Ennedi Plateau. UNESCO listed them in 2012 as the Lakes of Ounianga, recognising both their beauty and the rare way they survive. There is almost no rain here, and evaporation is intense, yet underground water from a vast ancient aquifer keeps the lakes alive. Floating mats of reeds slow evaporation on some of them, keeping their water fresh.

Ounianga Kebir and Lake Yoa

Ounianga Kebir is the larger group and home to Lake Yoa, the biggest of the lakes, a deep, salty, startlingly blue body of water ringed by sand and rock. The small town of Ounianga Kebir sits nearby, with palm gardens and a market where traders cross between Libya and the south. From the ridges above, the contrast of blue water and orange sand is extraordinary.

Ounianga Serir

Ounianga Serir, to the east, is a cluster of narrower lakes separated by dunes and ridges. Some are fresh and green with reeds, others red or purple from algae and minerals, all within a short walk of each other. Lake Teli is the largest here. Swimming is sometimes possible in the fresher lakes, but ask your guides, as the salty ones sting and the local people depend on the fresh water.

The people

Toubou communities live around the lakes, growing dates in the palm groves and keeping camels and goats. Salt has long been gathered from the shores. Visits should be arranged through your guides, with respect for privacy, and always ask before taking photographs.

How trips work

Ounianga is visited almost only as part of a longer expedition with Ennedi, run by specialist operators with four-wheel-drive vehicles and camping. Overland trips from N'Djamena take several days each way across the Sahel and desert, and some itineraries use charter flights to cut the distance. Permits are required and are normally handled by your operator.

When to go

November to February is by far the best time, with warm days, cold nights and clear skies. Strong winds can blow sand from late winter into spring, and summer heat is extreme.

Safety and travel advice

Ounianga sits in a region where several governments advise against all travel, partly because of its distance from help and its position on routes towards Libya. Read your government's current advice, check your insurance, and only consider a trip with an established operator that knows the region and holds the necessary permissions.

Practical tips

Bring sunglasses, a scarf against wind-blown sand and layers for chilly nights. Electronics need protection from dust. Carry copies of your passport and permits, and follow your guides' advice at every checkpoint.

Who Ounianga suits

Ounianga suits travellers already planning an Ennedi expedition who want to see something truly unique. It is remote and demanding, with long drives over sand and rock, so it is best for those comfortable with camping and simple conditions. Photographers will love the changing colours of the lakes across the day, and anyone interested in climate history will find the lakes a living record of a greener Sahara.