Preah Sihanouk province

Koh Rong and Koh Rong Samloem: Cambodia's island escape

Koh Rong and its smaller sister Koh Rong Samloem lie off Cambodia's southwest coast, a short ferry ride from Sihanoukville. They offer long white sand beaches, clear turquoise water, jungle interiors and nights when the sea glows with bioluminescent plankton. Koh Rong has more life, Koh Rong Samloem is quieter and more relaxed.

Saracen Bay panoramic view, Koh Rong Sanloem, Cambodia, June 2014
Photo: Wikirictor, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

At a glance

Best for
Beaches, snorkelling, hammocks and island life
Nearest airport
Sihanouk International (KOS)
Time needed
Three to five days
Best season
November to April
Gateway
Ferries from Sihanoukville
Getting around
Walking, boat taxis and jungle trails

Why go

The islands are Cambodia's answer to the beaches of Thailand, without the crowds of the big resorts. There are no big towns, roads are few, and much of the day is spent swimming, reading in a hammock or walking from one beach to the next. Electricity and internet can be patchy on remote beaches, and that is part of the appeal.

Koh Rong

Koh Rong is the larger island. Koh Toch, the village by the main pier, has guesthouses, restaurants and bars, and Police Beach nearby is known for parties. Beyond the village, Long Set Beach on the east side and the long, remote sweep of Sok San Beach on the west are among the best beaches in Southeast Asia. Jungle trails cross the island, and boat trips go snorkelling and fishing. At night, the plankton in calm water glows when you move, best on dark nights away from lights.

Koh Rong Samloem

Koh Rong Samloem is gentler. Most places to stay are on Saracen Bay, a crescent of white sand and calm water on the east side, with family friendly bungalows and restaurants. Lazy Beach and Sunset Beach on the west side are secluded spots for watching the sun go down, reached by trail or boat. The waters around the island are part of a marine protected area, with reefs where seahorses are monitored by conservation groups.

Sihanoukville

The ferries leave from Sihanoukville, which changed rapidly in the late 2010s with casinos and construction. It is not a place most visitors want to linger, and safety concerns have been raised about scam compounds in the region. Plan your journey so you connect straight from the bus or plane to the ferry, and check your government's travel advice for the latest.

When to go

The dry season, from November to April, brings calm seas and clear water. From May to October, the southwest monsoon brings rain, rougher crossings and more rubbish washing up on some beaches, and some places close. Ferries can be cancelled in bad weather, so leave a buffer day before an international flight.

Where to stay

Accommodation ranges from simple fan bungalows and hostels to boutique resorts on private bays. Book ahead in the high season, especially on Saracen Bay and the quieter beaches. Bring enough cash, as there are few cash machines and many places do not take cards.

Getting there

Fast ferries from Sihanoukville reach Koh Rong in around forty five minutes and Koh Rong Samloem in a little longer. Several companies run daily services, and timetables change by season, so book a day ahead. Sihanoukville is around four to five hours by bus from Phnom Penh, and the railway also runs on some days. Sihanouk International Airport has domestic and some regional flights.

Questions about Koh Rong

Koh Rong or Koh Rong Samloem?

Koh Rong suits travellers who want some nightlife and choice. Koh Rong Samloem suits couples and families looking for calm water and a quieter pace.

When can I see the glowing plankton?

On dark, moonless nights in calm water away from lights. It is visible most of the year, but best in the dry season.

Are there cash machines on the islands?

There are very few, and they can run out. Bring enough US dollars from the mainland.

Is it safe to swim?

Usually, on the calm sheltered beaches. Watch for currents on exposed beaches in the monsoon, and avoid swimming after drinking.

How many days should I spend on the islands?

Three to five days suits most travellers, enough to settle in, explore a few beaches, take a snorkelling trip and enjoy a couple of plankton nights. If you are short on time, two nights is the minimum to make the ferry journey worthwhile, and always leave a spare day before a flight.

Are the islands good for families?

Koh Rong Samloem's Saracen Bay is the best choice for families, with calm shallow water and relaxed resorts. Koh Toch on Koh Rong can be loud at night. Bring sun protection, insect repellent and any medicines you need, as pharmacies are basic and the nearest hospital is on the mainland.

Facts checked . Fees, schedules and entry rules change, so always confirm the latest with the official source.

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