Battambang: a guide to Cambodia's countryside capital

Why go

Many travellers rate Battambang as their favourite stop in Cambodia, and it is easy to see why. The town is calm and walkable, the people are friendly, and the countryside starts a few minutes from the centre. It has a strong creative streak, too: the arts school Phare Ponleu Selpak trains circus performers, musicians and painters, and small galleries line the old streets.

The bamboo train

The original bamboo train, or norry, was a home made platform of bamboo on rail wheels, run by villagers on the old railway. The original line closed when the railway was restored, and today a rebuilt bamboo train runs a short loop near the town at O Dambong. It is touristy but fun, especially for families, and the rice field views are lovely.

Phnom Sampeau

About twelve kilometres southwest, Phnom Sampeau is a hill topped with pagodas and views over the plains. On the way up are the killing caves, where the Khmer Rouge murdered people, now marked by a memorial. At dusk, millions of bats pour out of a cave at the foot of the hill in a long ribbon across the sky, one of the great sights of Cambodia. Come about an hour before sunset.

Temples and countryside

Wat Ek Phnom is an eleventh century Angkorian temple beside a modern pagoda. Prasat Banan sits on a hilltop reached by a long staircase, its five towers echoing Angkor Wat. The Kamping Puoy reservoir was built by forced labour under the Khmer Rouge and is now a weekend picnic spot. A countryside tour by tuk tuk or bicycle visits families making rice paper, fish paste, rice wine and dried bananas, and is one of the highlights of any visit.

Arts and the old town

Phare Ponleu Selpak, on the edge of town, holds circus shows by its students on certain evenings, so check the schedule. Galleries such as Romcheik 5 show young local artists. The riverside streets around Psar Nath, the art deco market, are lined with colonial shophouses best explored on foot in the early morning or late afternoon.

Food and drink

Battambang has a friendly cafe culture, with places like Kinyei and Jaan Bai, a training restaurant serving modern Khmer sharing plates. The night stalls along the river serve grilled meats and noodles, and Psar Nath has breakfast noodle soup. Try the local nom banh chok and fruit from the surrounding orchards.

Where to stay

The centre near the river has guesthouses and boutique hotels within walking distance of cafes. For something special, countryside stays such as the wooden houses of Maisons Wat Kor put you among the villages, a short ride from town.

Getting there

Buses and minivans run from Siem Reap in around three to four hours and from Phnom Penh in about five to six hours. In the wet season, a scenic but slow boat runs between Siem Reap and Battambang through the floating villages of the Tonle Sap, though it may stop when water is low. Check locally before you book.