Bansko and the Pirin: a first-timer's guide to Bulgaria's mountains

Why go

Bansko offers two holidays in one. Winter brings good snow, a modern gondola and slopes that suit beginners and intermediates, at a cost well below the Alps. Summer brings wildflowers, lakes and peaks above two thousand metres, with far fewer people than the famous western European trails.

The old town

Bansko's **old town** is a quarter of stone houses behind high walls and heavy wooden gates. Visit the **Church of the Holy Trinity** with its tall bell tower, the **Velyanov House** with its painted interiors, and the house museum of **Neofit Rilski**, a key figure in Bulgarian education. In the evening, step into a **mehana**, a traditional tavern, for slow cooked meat in clay pots, local sausage called **banski starets** and live folk music.

Skiing

The ski area is reached by a long **gondola** from the edge of town, climbing to Banderitsa and the main slopes around Shiligarnika and Todorka. There are runs for beginners through to advanced skiers, ski schools teaching in English, and plenty of rental shops. The queue for the gondola can be long at busy times, so start early. Nearby **Dobrinishte** is a smaller, quieter ski area.

Summer hiking

In summer the national park opens up. A road and chairlift lead to **Vihren hut** and the **Banderitsa** area, starting points for walks to the **Banderishki lakes**, the **Muratovo lake** and the ancient **Baikusheva Mura**, a Bosnian pine more than thirteen hundred years old. Fit hikers can climb **Vihren**, the highest peak in the Pirin. From the Bezbog hut above Dobrinishte, a chairlift brings you close to **Popovo Lake**, one of the largest in the range.

Stick to marked trails, check the weather and register your route at huts. Mountain weather can turn quickly even in August.

Day trips

**Dobarsko** village has a tiny church with unusual frescoes. Further south, **Melnik** is Bulgaria's smallest town, surrounded by sand pyramids and famous for its rich red wine, with the **Rozhen Monastery** a short walk away. The narrow gauge **Rhodope railway** from Septemvri to Dobrinishte is a scenic, slow journey through the mountains. **Rila Monastery** can be reached on the way to or from Sofia.

Where to stay

Stay near the **gondola** for ski convenience, or in the **old town** for character and taverns. Many apartment complexes sit between the two. In summer, a few nights in a mountain hut is a memorable option for hikers.

Getting there

Buses run from Sofia several times a day. The scenic narrow gauge train is slower and is best as an experience in itself. In winter, check road conditions before travelling.

Food and drink

Mountain food is rich and comforting. In the mehanas you will find **kapama**, slow cooked in sealed clay pots, the cured **banski starets** sausage, bean soup with smoked meat, grilled trout from mountain streams and **katino meze**, a sizzling pan of pork and mushrooms. Melnik's heavy red wine pairs perfectly. Many taverns have open fires and folk musicians on winter evenings, so book ahead on busy weekends and during the ski holidays.

Plan it

Add the mountains to your route with the free trip planner, and find taverns and stays in our places to visit list.