Okavango Delta: mokoros, islands and wildlife in Botswana

How the Delta works

Rain falls in the Angolan highlands between November and March. The water travels slowly south down the Okavango River and reaches the Delta months later, so the flood peaks in Botswana's dry winter, roughly June to August. That is the magic: just as the land around dries out, the Delta fills, and animals crowd in from the surrounding bush.

Ways to experience it

**Mokoro trips** are the signature experience. A mokoro is a traditional dugout canoe, now often made of fibreglass, poled by a local guide through the reeds. You sit low on the water among lilies, reed frogs and kingfishers, sometimes stopping to walk on an island. Day trips run from Maun to the Boro area, and community trusts offer overnight camping trips at budget rates.

**Moremi Game Reserve** protects the eastern Delta and can be reached by road from Maun. It is famous for wild dogs, leopards, lions and huge herds. Self-drivers need a capable four wheel drive, experience in sand and campsite bookings made well ahead.

**Fly-in camps** sit in private concessions deep inside the Delta. Small aircraft drop you on gravel airstrips, and the camps combine game drives, boat trips, mokoro outings and walks. They are expensive, because Botswana deliberately keeps visitor numbers low, but they deliver extraordinary wildlife with very few other vehicles.

**Scenic flights** from Maun show the Delta from above in an hour: elephant trails crossing channels, hippos in lagoons, islands ringed by palms. Helicopter flights with the doors removed are a photographer's dream.

Maun, the gateway

Maun is a dusty, friendly safari town on the Thamalakane River. It has banks, supermarkets, pharmacies and plenty of lodges and campsites along the river. Stay a night either side of your Delta trip to rest, sort cash and repack into the soft bags light aircraft require. Hilary's and The Duck Café are long time favourites for breakfast, and Old Bridge Backpackers is the place to swap stories over a cold drink.

Choosing your trip

For a once in a lifetime splurge, two or three fly-in camps of different types, one water based and one land based, give the full picture. On a mid-range budget, combine a lodge on the Thamalakane River with a Moremi safari and a scenic flight. On a tight budget, a guided mobile camping safari or a community mokoro trip from Maun brings you into the Delta at a fraction of the cost.

What to pack

Light aircraft usually limit you to a soft bag with a strict weight allowance, so pack light: neutral clothes, a warm fleece for winter mornings, a hat, sunscreen, insect repellent and binoculars. Bright white and dark blue can attract insects or stand out to animals.

Health and safety

The Delta is a malaria area, especially in the wet season, so get medical advice on prevention before you travel. Wildlife is genuinely wild: camps are unfenced, and you will be escorted to your tent after dark. Listen to your guide every time, never swim in the channels, and keep a safe distance from hippos.