Gaborone: a first-timer's guide to Botswana's capital

Why visit Gaborone

Most safari travellers never see Gaborone, and that is a pity. This is where modern Botswana lives: civil servants and students, diaspora families returning for weddings and funerals, and a growing arts and music scene. A couple of days here gives you a sense of the country beyond the lodges, and it is easy, safe by regional standards and friendly.

The sights

Start at the **Three Dikgosi Monument** in the Central Business District, where bronze statues honour Khama III, Sebele I and Bathoen I. In 1895 the three chiefs travelled to London to persuade Queen Victoria not to hand their land to Cecil Rhodes' company, and their success is a big reason Botswana exists in its current form. The small museum beneath tells the story well.

The **National Museum and Art Gallery** on Independence Avenue covers Tswana history, San culture and modern art in an hour or two. Nearby, the **Thapong Visual Arts Centre** shows working artists in an old colonial house, and **Botswanacraft** is the best single shop in the country for Etsha baskets, San ostrich egg jewellery and pottery.

Nature on the doorstep

Climb **Kgale Hill** early in the morning for views over the city and the dam; the path is steep and rocky, and baboons are common, so carry water and keep food out of sight. Inside the city, the small **Gaborone Game Reserve** has zebra, wildebeest and kudu. Fifteen minutes south, **Mokolodi Nature Reserve** offers guided game drives, rhino tracking, bush walks and a restaurant overlooking a waterhole. It is a lovely half day for children and for anyone nervous about a first safari.

Day trips

Gaborone is a good base for short trips into village Botswana. **Oodi Weavers**, north of the city, make hand woven tapestries of village life. **Thamaga** is known for its pottery. The **Manyana rock paintings** and **Livingstone's Kolobeng Mission**, where the missionary lived and lost an infant daughter, are both within an easy drive. Further north, Serowe has the **Khama Rhino Sanctuary** and the Khama III Memorial Museum, birthplace territory of Sir Seretse Khama, the first president.

Food

Eat **seswaa**, the national dish of slow cooked, pounded beef, with **pap** or **bogobe** and a side of **morogo** greens. Lunch stalls around the Main Mall and the bus rank serve it to office workers every day. Try **magwinya**, the fat cakes sold hot in the morning, and look for **phane**, dried mopane worms, if you are curious. For a sit down meal, the city has Portuguese, Indian and steak restaurants, and the malls such as Riverwalk and Game City have reliable chains.

Where to stay

Most hotels cluster around the CBD, Kgale and the main roads. Larger resorts with pools suit first-timers and families, and guesthouses in quieter suburbs such as the Village or Phakalane suit longer stays. Book through well reviewed platforms and check whether airport transfers are included.

Getting around

Gaborone is spread out and not built for walking between areas, especially in the heat. Use registered taxis (blue number plates), ride-hailing apps that operate in the city, or arrange transport through your hotel. Combis (minibuses) are cheap and run fixed routes, but they are crowded and confusing for newcomers.

Safety

The city is generally calm, but burglary, bag snatching and car break-ins do happen. Avoid walking alone after dark, keep phones out of sight in busy areas such as the bus rank, and lock your room. Read your government's current advice before you go.