Abomey: the royal capital of Dahomey

Why visit Abomey

Abomey is where the story of Dahomey comes alive. The kingdom grew rich and feared through war, trade and, painfully, the slave trade, and its army included the Agojie, the women soldiers often called the Amazons of Dahomey. The kings built a new palace for each reign, so the royal enclosure became a city within the city. Today Abomey is a relaxed town where royal families still hold ceremonies, artisans still sew appliqué cloth and Vodun remains part of daily life.

The Royal Palaces

The palaces are the reason to come. Around ten palaces once stood here, and the restored buildings of Kings Ghézo and Glèlè house the **Musée Historique d'Abomey**. Inside you see thrones, including one standing on human skulls, royal weapons, tapestries and altars. The outer walls are decorated with painted bas-reliefs, each one a symbol of a king or a famous victory: a shark for Béhanzin, a buffalo for Ghézo, a lion for Glèlè.

After years of restoration and the return in 2021 of royal treasures taken by France in 1892, displays have been changing, so check what is open when you visit. Hire an official guide at the entrance; the history is complex and the guides make it vivid.

Appliqué cloth and crafts

Abomey's appliqué makers sew bright figures onto cloth, a tradition that once recorded royal history. Workshops near the palaces welcome visitors, and you can buy wall hangings directly from the families who make them. Brass casters and woodcarvers also work in the town.

Beyond the palaces

The **Agongointo underground village** near Bohicon is a network of hidden chambers dug into the earth as refuges for soldiers. Abomey's twin town, **Bohicon**, has one of the biggest markets in the country, best on its main market days. North of Abomey, **Dassa-Zoumè** is a town of granite hills and a Catholic pilgrimage grotto, and the road there passes through rolling farmland.

Vodun in Abomey

Abomey has many Vodun temples and convents linked to the royal families. You may see ceremonies with drumming and dancing, especially during the January Vodun season. Ask your guide before photographing anything religious and follow local customs, which can include removing shoes in shrines.

Where to stay and eat

Abomey and Bohicon have simple, friendly hotels and guesthouses rather than luxury options. One of the best-known is a guesthouse set in a garden full of sculptures, and several mid-range hotels in Bohicon have pools. Local maquis serve pâte with peanut or tomato sauce, igname pilée, which is pounded yam, and grilled chicken.

Getting there

The road from Cotonou to Bohicon and Abomey is paved and well used. Buses, shared taxis and hotel-arranged drivers all make the trip. Avoid driving after dark, when trucks and unlit motorbikes make the road more dangerous. Many travellers combine Abomey with Dassa-Zoumè and return south via Lake Ahémé and the coast.

When to go

November to March is driest and most comfortable, though the harmattan wind can bring haze from December to February. January's Vodun season is especially atmospheric, with ceremonies around the royal temples. Start palace visits early in the day, before the heat builds, and allow at least two hours with a guide.