The Ardennes: a first-timer's guide to Belgium's forests

Why go

The Ardennes spreads across the provinces of Namur, Luxembourg and Liège in Wallonia, running on into Luxembourg and France. It is not high, but its rivers, the Meuse, the Lesse, the Ourthe and the Semois, have carved dramatic valleys through the forest. Days here are about walking, paddling, visiting castles and caves, and long lunches on terraces. It was also the scene of the Battle of the Bulge in the winter of 1944 to 1945, and memorials and museums mark it.

Dinant and the Meuse

**Dinant** is the easiest place to start, with direct trains from Namur. Its onion-domed collegiate church sits beneath a cliff topped by the **Citadel**, reached by cable car or by a long staircase. Dinant was the birthplace of Adolphe Sax, inventor of the saxophone, and giant saxophones line the bridge. Nearby, the **Gardens of Annevoie** have water features that run without pumps, and the abbey of **Maredsous** brews beer and makes cheese, with a visitor centre and café.

Kayaking on the Lesse and the caves of Han

The classic summer outing is a **kayak trip on the Lesse** from Houyet down to Anseremme near Dinant, with companies providing boats and a return bus or train. Further south, the **Caves of Han** at Han-sur-Lesse are a vast cave system visited by a historic tram and on foot, with a wildlife park alongside. Book ahead in high season, and bring a warm layer: the caves stay cool all year.

Durbuy, La Roche and the Ourthe

**Durbuy** markets itself as the smallest town in the world, a cobbled huddle of stone houses with a famous topiary park. **La Roche-en-Ardenne** sits in a loop of the Ourthe under a ruined castle and is a base for hiking and kayaking; it has a Battle of the Bulge museum and is known for its smoked ham. Both get busy at weekends and quiet midweek.

Bouillon and the Semois

In the far south, **Bouillon** has the most impressive castle in Belgium, linked to the crusader Godfrey of Bouillon, and torchlit visits in summer. The **Semois** valley around it has some of the region's best viewpoints, such as the Tombeau du Géant near Botassart, and riverside villages for quiet stays.

Spa and the High Fens

In the east, **Spa** gave its name to every spa in the world and still has thermal baths. Beyond it, the **High Fens** (Hautes Fagnes) is a raised plateau of moorland with boardwalk trails, the highest point in Belgium at Signal de Botrange, and real winter snow in some years.

Food and drink

Expect **Ardennes ham**, game in autumn, trout from the rivers, and local cheeses. Trappist beers come from Orval and Rochefort, and Orval abbey's ruins and gardens can be visited. Book restaurants at weekends, as villages have few options and many close early or on certain weekdays.

Getting there and around

Trains run from Brussels to Namur, Dinant, Jemelle (for Han and Rochefort), Libramont and Marloie, and to Spa via Liège. Buses run by TEC link the smaller towns but can be infrequent, so check timetables carefully. A car makes exploring easier, but many visitors manage well with trains, hiking and kayak shuttles. Mobile signal can be patchy in valleys, so download maps before you go.