Oran: a first-timer's guide to Algeria's second city

Why visit Oran

Oran, known locally as Wahran, has a different energy from Algiers. Spanish rule for almost three centuries, then the Ottomans and the French, left a layered city with a strong sense of its own identity. It hosted the Mediterranean Games in 2022, which brought a new stadium and a smarter seafront. Many Algerians come here for summer holidays, and the nearby coast has some of the country's best beaches.

Santa Cruz and the view

Above the city on Mount Murdjadjo stand the Spanish fort of Santa Cruz and the chapel of Notre Dame de Santa Cruz. The view across the bay and the port is the best in Oran, especially before sunset. Go by taxi, as the road is steep, and combine it with a walk in the pine forest of Les Planteurs nearby.

The city centre

Start at the Place du 1er Novembre, with its town hall guarded by bronze lions and the restored regional theatre. Walk along the Front de Mer, a long balcony above the port, where families stroll after dark. The former Sacred Heart cathedral is now a public library, and the Ahmed Zabana National Museum holds archaeology, natural history and fine art. The old quarter of Sidi El Houari, below the centre, holds the Pasha Mosque, the Bey's Palace and Spanish gates, and is slowly being restored by local volunteers.

Raï and the evening

Raï, the music of Cheb Khaled and Cheb Mami, grew out of Oran's cabarets and weddings. You will hear it from cars, cafés and seaside venues all summer. The seafront and the Ain El Turk coast road are where evenings are spent, at cafés and seafood restaurants that stay busy late.

Beaches

West of the city, Ain El Turk, Les Andalouses and Cap Falcon have long sandy beaches that are packed with families in July and August and pleasantly quiet in June and September. Madagh, further west, is a lovely cove backed by forest. Dress codes on the beach are relaxed by Algerian standards, but cover up when you leave the sand.

Food in Oran

Oran's signature street food is karantika, a baked chickpea flan sold in sandwiches with harissa and cumin. Try grilled sardines and fish soup by the port, and the Oranese version of couscous with vegetables. Cafés serve strong coffee and pastries from early morning.

Getting around

The Oran tram runs through the centre to the university and the eastern suburbs, and taxis and ride hailing apps cover the rest. Shared taxis serve the beach towns. Ahmed Ben Bella Airport has flights to Europe and around Algeria, and trains run east to Algiers.

Safety

Oran is generally safe for visitors. Watch for bag snatching in crowds and at the beach, keep your phone out of reach of passing scooters, and use registered taxis late at night. Carry your passport for checkpoints and avoid photographing police or the port installations.

Beyond Oran

Tlemcen, with its Almoravid mosques and the ruins of Mansourah, is an excellent side trip a few hours to the southwest. Compare Oran with Algiers and plan your route with the free trip planner.

Who Oran suits

Oran is ideal for travellers who like cities with a social, outdoor life: music lovers, beach goers, families and anyone who wants Algeria at a slower, sunnier pace. It is also a natural first stop for diaspora travellers from France and Spain, with direct flights and a strong sense of welcome.