Livingstone and Victoria Falls: the complete Zambian side guide

Why visit

Few places on earth are as dramatic as Victoria Falls. The Zambezi drops into a narrow chasm along a front well over a kilometre wide, throwing up spray you can see from miles away. The Zambian side lets you walk right up to the eastern cataract, cross the Knife Edge Bridge through the mist and, in the right season, sit in a rock pool at the top of the drop. Livingstone itself is a relaxed colonial era town with good restaurants, curio markets and lodges strung along the river.

Seeing the falls

The **Mosi oa Tunya National Park** entrance is just before the border post. Paths lead to the Knife Edge Bridge, the main viewpoints and the **Boiling Pot**, a steep hike down to the whirlpool in the first gorge. In high water, roughly February to May, you will be drenched, so bring a waterproof bag for your phone. Around the full moon in high water months, night visits may let you see a **lunar rainbow**.

When the river drops, usually from about September to December, the Zambian side can be thin or almost dry in places, while the Zimbabwean side keeps more water. Many visitors cross for a day: check the current visa arrangements on the official sites before you go.

Devil's Pool and Livingstone Island

**Livingstone Island** sits on the lip of the falls, and tours run by boat from the Royal Livingstone hotel area. In low water, roughly mid August to January depending on the river, the tour includes a swim in **Devil's Pool**, a natural basin right at the edge. Tours are small and book out in peak months, so reserve early. Operators decide each day whether it is safe.

Adventures

Livingstone is famous for **white water rafting** in the Batoka Gorge, best in the low water season. You can also bungee jump or swing from the **Victoria Falls Bridge**, take a historic tour underneath it, fly over the falls by helicopter or microlight, canoe on the upper Zambezi, or walk with rangers to see white rhino in **Mosi oa Tunya Game Park**. A sunset cruise on the upper river is the gentlest classic, with hippos and elephants in the shallows.

Ethical note: be cautious of activities that let you walk with lions or ride elephants. Many conservation groups advise against them. Choose experiences that watch wildlife in the wild.

Culture and history

The **Livingstone Museum** is Zambia's oldest and covers the region's history, peoples and David Livingstone's journeys. The **Railway Museum** suits steam fans. **Mukuni Village**, home of the Toka Leya people, offers guided visits led by residents.

Food and stays

Café Zambezi and other spots on Mosi oa Tunya Road serve Zambian and international food, and riverside lodges are perfect for sundowners. Stays range from backpacker hostels in town, which also run good tour desks, to riverside lodges upstream and grand hotels within walking distance of the falls.

Getting there and around

Livingstone has direct flights from Johannesburg and domestic flights from Lusaka. Intercity buses connect Lusaka and Livingstone in about a day. In town, use taxis arranged by your accommodation or tour transfers. Kasane in Botswana is close by for a Chobe day trip.

Staying safe

Livingstone is relaxed, but petty theft happens. Do not walk between town and the falls after dark, since elephants and other animals use the same roads. Follow your guides on the river and in the gorge.