South Luangwa: walking safaris and leopards

Why visit South Luangwa

The walking safari was pioneered here in the 1950s by Norman Carr, and walking is still the best way to understand the bush. With a guide and an armed scout, you track lions by their prints, learn which birds warn of danger and stand quietly as elephants cross the river. Night drives, allowed in Zambia's parks, regularly find leopards, genets, civets and hyenas.

The valley is home to big herds of buffalo and elephant, hippos packed into the river, the endemic **Thornicroft's giraffe**, Cookson's wildebeest further north, and around four hundred bird species, including carmine bee-eaters nesting in the riverbanks.

When to go

The dry season from June to October is the classic time, with wildlife concentrated along the river and thinning bush. September and October are hot but brilliant for game. The **green season** from November to March is lush and beautiful, with baby animals and superb birdlife, but many bush camps close and some roads flood. Lodges near Mfuwe stay open all year and offer boat safaris when the river is high.

Getting there

Most visitors fly from Lusaka to **Mfuwe**, a short scheduled flight, and are met by their lodge. By road, the route runs from Lusaka along the Great East Road to Chipata, then on to Mfuwe; it is a long two day journey for most travellers, and minibuses and private transfers run the last stretch.

Where to stay

The main gate is at Mfuwe, where a cluster of lodges and camps sits along the river just outside the park. This area has the full range, from campsites and good value chalets at places like Croc Valley and Marula Lodge, to classic lodges such as Mfuwe Lodge, famous for elephants walking through its reception in November. Deeper inside the park, small seasonal bush camps offer the most immersive experience, often linked by walking routes. The **Nsefu Sector** in the north is quieter.

Beyond the drives

Visit **Tribal Textiles** to see hand painted fabrics being made, or **Mulberry Mongoose**, which turns snare wire into jewellery. **Kawaza Village** offers a community run visit with traditional meals and dance. Conservation groups such as Conservation South Luangwa and Zambian Carnivore Programme work in the valley, and some lodges share their work with guests.

North Luangwa and beyond

For true wilderness, **North Luangwa National Park** has only a few seasonal camps and focuses on walking. It is also where black rhino were reintroduced. Access is by light aircraft or a long drive.

Health and safety

The valley is a malaria area, so take advice on prevention before you travel. Wildlife walks freely through unfenced camps: never walk alone after dark and always follow your guide. Tsetse flies bite in some areas, so wear light neutral colours and avoid dark blue and black.

A typical day

Days start early with tea by the fire, then a morning walk or drive while it is cool. You return for brunch and a rest in the heat of the day, head out again in the late afternoon, stop for a sundowner and continue on a night drive. Dinner is often under the stars.